Tansu

Traditionally, Japanese interior uses very little furniture. On bare tatami floors, low tables and cushions are placed during the day which are replaced in the evening by futons. Most possessions are stored away behind fusuma sliding doors in large oshi-ire wall closets, or in special fireproof storage buildings called kura.

Of the few pieces of specialised storage furniture that Japanese people possessed, Tansu are probably the most beautiful ones: Large dressers made of various kinds of wood with different lacquer finish and decorated metalwork at the locks and handles of the drawers. Some old style Tansu have handles on their sides as well, so they can be easily transported by two people – either by carrying it in the usual fashion or by putting a wooden bar through the top handles which can be flipped upwards.

Several different TansuTansu first came up in the 17th century as a means to store kimono. Until then, Japanese people had stored their clothing in baskets or wheeled trunks, if they were able to buy more than one kimono at all. Around that time however, for several reasons, general wealth increased and when people could afford to buy more clothing, baskets and trunks became too cumbersome to use. Osaka clothes merchants first started to use Tansu in their shops since they made retrieving their goods much more easy. And when – after a devastating fire in Edo (now Tokyo) – wheeled trunks were outlawed, Tansu quickly filled the void.

The first centre of Tansu production was Osaka, and the finished furniture was transported by ship mainly to Edo and Kyoto. By the beginning of the 18th century, demand in Edo had risen drastically, and Tansu were being manufactured there as well as in other larger cities like Kyoto or Nagoya for example. By the mid 19th century, Tansu were produced in many of the smaller castle towns to be sold locally, which eventually gave rise to many local styles and specialised types of Tansu.

Portable Kakesuzuri TansuLike so many other Japanese arts and crafts, Tansu arrived from China. At first, they were just small boxes used for tea ceremony, the original Kanji meaning “something that is carried”. So-called funa dansu used by sailors as well as kakesuzuri for the use of merchants with space for writing implements, soroban and sometimes even a lamp, were still relatively small and could be carried easily.

Funa Dansu used by sailorsOf significantly larger size are isho dansu with several drawers to hold clothing, and they quickly became a standard part of a woman’s dowry. It was usual for a woman to bring two isho-dansu to her husband’s home; if she had more, it meant that she owned more kimono – a sign of wealth. Heya dansu were 180 cm wide and thus filled the entire space between two pillars of a Japanese room. They were as high as the sliding doors and thus covered a whole wall of a room. Other special types of Tansu are kusuri dansu, medicine chests with lots of tiny little drawers for different herbs, and kaidan dansu, which were used as staircases, always carefully hidden behind fusuma doors.

Kaidan Dansu as staircase. Note the fusuma on the leftTansu could be very elaborately made, depending on the intended owner. From the relatively simple drawer type of the middle class samurai, where the wood was polished and covered with clear lacquer, to the elaborately black lacquered double-door type showing golden crests which were used for important government documents, Tansu became a status symbol in the larger cities.

A distinctive feature of Tansu are the metal fittings on the locks and at the handles. They could be simply an indicator of the manufacturing site or individually designed for the customer with flowers, animals, or even family crests. The wood used was mostly Zelkova or Paulownia, and Tansu were made in a special way without nails that allowed the wood to expand and shrink according to the humidity of the summer or the dryness of the Japanese winter, something Western furniture is less able to do.

Sendai Tansu for Middle Class SamuraiAs mentioned above, Tansu development reached its peak in the Meiji era when regional characteristics appeared around 1880 and lasted for some 40 years. Interestingly, the death-blow of the Tansu was the increased demand from Tokyo after the devastating 1923 Kanto earthquake. By this time, there was a distinct Tokyo Tansu, and since the city’s factories were destroyed, smaller ones from all over Japan stepped in to fill the gap – and discarded their local style for the more sombre, Western-influenced style of Tokyo. In fact, if you are buying a modern Tansu today, this style – with unlacquered, almost white wood and small black metal fittings – remains the prevalent one.

Tokyo style TansuEven though Western wardrobes and dressers have all but replaced the traditional Tansu, there are some producers who still make them according to the old methods. They are absolutely stunning – and very expensive! It remains to be seen whether a revival is indeed taking place, or whether Tansu stay something for the connoisseur…

Inventory

Over Golden Week and in the days after I finally had time to finish my inventory list. During unpacking, I counted and listed everything I own with the exception of consumables. Whenever something new enters my home now, I update the list. For a single woman it’s not too bad I think, but there are certainly some rather interesting things that I forgot I had ever packed… Let’s have a look:

stack of colorful towelsAltogether, I own more than 3000 items, large and small. The top five categories are:

Clothing (538 items)
Kitchen utensils (432 items)
Books (378 items – and counting)
Jewelry (162 items)
CDs (91 items)

This must be the first time in my adult life that I own more clothes than books; but this is somewhat understandable since I gave away at least two-thirds of my library (and yes, I am still grieving…). I honestly did not know that I had that many kitchen utensils (including cutlery, dishes, etc.) because I don’t really cook that much. However, I definitely need my 41 tea spoons: I eat a lot of yoghurt and Nutella (bread really is optional here), so they are greatly valued. Running out of tea spoons is a sure sign that I need to do the dishes.

Taking a somewhat closer look at all the piles of things I own, I have a wide range of stuff from the normal to the somewhat interesting. For a woman I don’t think that 21 pairs of shoes are excessive, especially since they include everything from my 10-cm emergency high heels, to a pair of rain boots, and several pairs of flip-flops. 80 t-shirts only sounds a lot really, but there are also some with sentimental value I will never wear again, for example the one that says “I wü wieda ham…”, which is a bit complicated to explain.

Things where I should not have brought quite that many are summer pyjamas: 11 are definitely overkill in a country where even summer nights are above 30 degrees. And although girls like variety, I do not change my wallet every month… 24 cloth shopping bags and 85 clothes hangers will only come handy if I ever open my own shop; and why on earth I have 12 pairs of black pantyhose when I wear one at most once a year is beyond me.

And let’s not talk about the cowhide, shall we? I’m glad I brought the toy car that goes with it though. But that’s another complicated story…

Austrian President

Last Sunday saw the latest edition of Austrian Presidential Elections. They happen every 6 years, and since the incumbent was not allowed another term of office, we needed somebody new. In fact, last Sunday was only the run-off ballot between the two candidates who gained the most votes four weeks ago, in the first ballot with six candidates.

What was left over were the right-wing candidate and the one supported by the green party; and the elections could not have been any more exciting. On Sunday, the projection of the votes stood at 50 : 50 percent, and it took the whole Monday to count the absentee ballots (among them mine) to come to the final result of 49,65 : 50,35 percent, a difference of ony 31.026 votes (more than 4.8 million Austrians voted).

Austria now has – as the first country in Europe – a president with a green, left-wing background and I am quite relieved about that. While it never happened in Japan (yet), I have been asked about all the “Nazis” in Austria before… Anyway, I think I will call it a night early today, since I didn’t sleep much the last two nights because I was waiting for the results. Last night alone, I spent a whole hour watching somebody walking up and down before cameras while he was waiting for the Austrian Minister of the Interior to announce the final results. I obviously don’t have anything better to do…

Avocado Donburi

It is slowly getting warmer here, and although the weather is still very pleasant, it will not take long until the humidity increases to the summer level of “hardly bearable”. At this time, the less you do to provoke your body to sweat, the better. And the less time you spend in the hot kitchen, the better.

On these days, if I choose to eat anything solid at all, I like to keep my cooking short and sweet. I love avocados, and most of the time I simply spoon them out of their peel and eat them with soy sauce. However, sometimes I want to indulge a bit more, and then I make avocado donburi, which is essentially avocado on top of a bowl of rice with a bit of seasoning. Once the rice is cooked, it is very quick lunch or dinner (or, with half an avocado, a starter), which makes it perfect for this time of the year.

Recipe for Avocado Donburi à la Junko san
(for 2 people)

– 2 bowls of boiled rice, preferrably white

– 2 teaspoons of chirimen sanshou (tiny broiled sardines mixed with Japanese pepper)
– 3 Perilla leaves, cut into thin stripes
Distribute evenly over the two bowls.

– 1 ripe avocado
Cut into 1.5 cm cubes and put 1/2 of the cubes into each rice bowl.

– 6 surimi sticks
Gently tear them apart with your fingers and add on top of the avocado cubes.

Mix some soy sauce with wasabi, and pour it over the avocado just before eating.

Bells

Since the scaffolding is gone from the south side of my building and it is now getting warm enough, I am keeping my windows and balcony doors open, at least during the day. Mostly my neighborhood is rather quiet, with the exception of the road next to the river. And the schools. No, I am not talking about screaming kids during breaks or sports classes. Even though there are three schools nearby, I do not hear any of them.

Bell at Shinyodo TempleWhat I do hear though, all through the day, are the school bells. They probably come from a different school each time depending on wind direction, but still, I can hear them very often. And every time I hear them, I am reminded of my own time in school. Because, wouldn’t you believe it, the bells have the same tone, even melody, as the one we had in my middle school 30 years ago!

Is this not a neat way of bridging the gaps between cultures? Of course, this leads to interesting questions: Why this particular bell sound – and not any other? The question remains even if this is the standard setting for school bells – who thought this was a good idea? Or, maybe, there is only a single producer of school bell systems worldwide! But then, where do they come from – Austria or Japan?

Viewpoint

Today, finally, the scaffolding was removed from the south side of my apartment building. I am genuinely thrilled of having my view back, and even more so, of not having to close my curtains during the day anymore to prevent being watched. Even though my curtains are lightweight, it got surprisingly dark in my apartment, something I really don’t like – I prefer bright rooms throughout, and a view, as I said.

It was very funny to watch when the scaffolding was removed from the building behind mine. Pretty much the moment a balcony was free, people came out with things to dry, with their laundry – and their futons. Futons need regular airing and/or drying because they may get moldy otherwise. This actually happened to a friend of mine who, after months of never turning the futons over had to throw them away… Another reason to put them away every day, although it’s not an exciting piece of housework.  Even though potential mold is not a pressing issue at the moment, since the humidity is hardly noticeable, it is nice to be able to put the futon in the sun for the first time in months.

Of course, on my quest to become more Japanese, I followed the model of my neighbours and put out my futon today. This gave me the perfect opportunity to thoroughly clean my bedroom and get my summer clothes out as well. I am now fully prepared for whatever may come in the way of summer heat…

Kyoto State Guest House

Entertaining guests – especially if one is determined to do it well – is not an easy thing to do. Raise it to the level of state guests, and walking the delicate line between entertainment and representation almost becomes an art. Heads of state and other dignitaries are treated to intimate views of national landmarks, personal meetings with local celebrities, and a walk past a military guard; all of these usually accompanied by numerous cameras. But once they are turned off, the guests are briskly whisked away – but where to?

In Japan, one of the places such illustrious guests are taken to is the Kyoto State Guest House. Situated in the park of the Imperial palace, the house – or rather, the complex consisting of several buildings on two floors – consists of some 8.000 square metres of floor space on each level, located in a separate, walled-in park of more than 20.000 square metres. Usually, the guest house is off-limits to the public, but a few times a year, special openings are held where the official part of the building can be admired.

Kyoto State Guest House gardenHaving passed through the main entrance and the Juraku-no-ma lobby, one enters the conference room called Yubae-no-ma. The room itself is in a rather sober Western style, but each of its short sides is decorated with a tapestry 2.3 x 8.6 metres high, depicting the moon over Mount Hiei on the east wall, and the sunset behind Mount Atago on the west wall, mirroring Kyoto’s true layout.

State dinner set for 1 personBeyond this is the Fuji-no-ma Banquet Hall, the largest room in the guest house, which can seat up to 120 guests. Again, a huge tapestry of 3.1 x 16.6 metres adorns the main wall and behind a number of sliding doors hides a stage, where music or dances are performed as dinner entertainment. A table setting like the one above is used at such dinners, coordinated to the latest detail. The embroidery on the napkin shows the Japanese state seal by the way, a stylised image of a Paulownia, going back to at least the 17th century.

hallwayFrom here a dark and comparatively narrow hallway reminiscent of old Gion leads to the Kiri-no-ma, a small, almost intimate Banquet room in Japanese style. This room with its tatami and low chairs seats only 24 people, but it does so extremely stylishly on a 12 metre long, black-lacquered table made from a single piece of wood. The low chairs again bear the Paulownia seal on their backs.

Kyoto State Guest House small banquet roomThe rooms beyond that – in particular the private guest rooms – remain closed, so from this final room that is open to the public, visitors are led back to the entrance. On this last path one has the opportunity to admire the large garden with the obligatory pond that lies at the centre of the whole complex. The design concept behind it is complete harmonisation of the garden and house, and it has been accomplished very well indeed.

detail of sliding doorInterestingly, the house, built only in 2005, is made of reinforced concrete, but the traditional Japanese interior design with its paper sliding doors, wood panels and floor lamps easily conceals this. Still, when you think of it, this is nothing more than a hotel, so the feeling conveyed is cool understatement, and the furniture and other decor are functional and sparse. At the same time, the devil expecting to impress hides in the details, only for the initiated to find and appreciate: The furniture is handmade using traditional craftsmanship, the decorations on sliding doors and furniture are pure gold, the strategically placed artwork only comes from the most renowned Japanese artists, and the lacquered table you see in the picture above must have taken years to make and is doubtlessly worth a fortune.

I have only posted very few pictures of my own this time, but in fact, you can take a video tour of Kyoto State Guest House yourself; it even includes one additional room we were not allowed in. Have a look here – enjoy!

Sugar

Most people who get to know me find out pretty quickly that I am very fond of sweets. (And many people who don’t know me deduce that from my weight…) And I find it an extremely nice move when people give me sweets as presents, first because I like to try out new ones, and second because they won’t clutter up my home (for long).

sugar lumps with sugar flowes on topToday I received this little gift from one of my English students. These are nothing but normal lumps of sugar, with a little handmade sugar flower on top. All the flowers are different, and the really cute thing about them is that when you put them into your tea, the sugar cube dissolves more quickly than the flower, which will then rise to the surface and swim on the tea for a while. It almost gives the impression of a lonely lotus on a lake…

I have seen this type of food art before but only as something to be done for tea ceremonies. In general, the Japanese are quite obsessed with food and will often go through great lengths to prepare it; sometimes so much so that you’d really rather not eat the final result. This must be the reason why so many Japanese first take a snapshot of their food before delving into it.

Back!

I’m back – well, I didn’t go anywhere, but I’m back posting here. Golden Week was nice and relaxing, the temperature has picked up a bit even though it is raining now. There were several things I did last week that I had put off for quite a while, and it is wonderful to start with a clean slate, or at least, with a clean apartment again.

Finally, after all these months I have managed to unpack my books! It took me that long because there is no good spot to place bookshelves in my apartment. I did not want any tall ones in my bedroom, nor in that part of my living room I intend to use for guests – if there is a heavy earthquake, you don’t want to be buried under books. And the one livingroom wall where bookshelves would fit gets the full sunlight in winter, which is not good either. So I decided to have only very low bookshelves underneath a window, but it was hard to find the right size, and I ended up doing a significant amount of DIY there…

Anyway, I have now unpacked, catalogued, and stowed away my books – all 366 of them. Surprisingly, even though what is left is only one third of my library, there were only two books I missed (and will certainly buy again); and I do somewhat regret getting rid of my complete collection of discworld novels, mostly because the current covers are not that nice anymore. Other than that I did not feel too bad about what I kept, which is good.

Also, I have looked at furniture and lamps for the livingroom as well. As I said, I want the part with the tatami to be in Japanese style, but unfortunately, the really nice lamps I like are very expensive and the cheap ones are either ugly or plastic… I am still contemplating about some lamps that took my fancy. We will see – and I promise to post pictures once the living room is finished.

Besides that I enjoyed the nice days of last week by sitting on my balcony. Although the scaffolding is still there, the black sheets were removed from the south side of the building, so I have a (mostly) unobstructed view again. Now, people are busy on the north side, but it seems that they are slightly less enthusiastic about it there.

I also went to a special event last Sunday: The Kyoto State Guest House had open days. Everybody could go and have a look how state guests are housed and entertained in Japan – and I can tell you, it’s not shabby at all! I will write about this in depth in the weekend.

Time Off

At the first day of each new month, I am always terribly busy – so I was today, and now I am very tired. I wish all the work I am doing would directly translate into money on my account, but it does not seem to do that…

Anyway, next week is Japan’s Golden Week with three holidays in a row which gives the country a reason to shut down. Well, so will I, even though I am not sure I will have the opportunity to take it very easy… But, my next regular post will be on Tuesday, May 10th. I hope I have something exciting to tell you then!