Typhoon

The weather has improved, the temperatures are back in the low thirties which I find more acceptable at this time of the year compared to the low to mid twenties it had at the beginning of the week.

satellite image of a typhoon The reason for the very heavy rain that lasted several days almost without breaks was Doraji, the 17th typhoon of this season in SE Asia. It travelled quite some distance, was supposed to hit Korea, but decided instead to go to Japan and make landfall at the southern tip of Shikoku early on Wednesday. Doraji pushed the heavy rain in front of it. When I went out on Wednesday, within five minutes my jeans were soaked up to the knees, not to speak of my sneakers…

With the rain came a severe drop in temperature of about 10 degrees. During the day it was okay, at least the humidity wasn’t too annoying. But it became really cold in the night. I have what is called a “hot carpet” in my room, that is a carpet with some electrical wiring inside that can be heated so you can sit on something warm. It lies underneath my futon, and I was very happy to use it in the night from Wednesday to Thursday. Another housemate of mine who is staying downstairs where it is usually cooler than in my room used her heavy sleeping bag, even during the evening. I am glad it’s over, but I have to say I do not look forward to winter time here – there’s no central heating in the house…

Buildings

image of a hotel in kyoto

Take a look at the picture to the left.

What’s wrong with this building?

 

I mean, there’s nothing wrong with it as such, it’s a perfectly fine building.

In fact, this is a hotel near Teramachi street in Kyoto.

 

Anyway, there is something about this building you’ll only find in Japan.

Take another, closer look.

 

And?

Found anything?

 

Do you notice the red triangles on some of the windows? Those stickers can be found on many windows of government or other public buildings, but also large apartment blocks or high buildings like this hotel sport these red triangles. They mark those windows that are emergency entrances. I am not sure if all of them have the same design, but the one I have checked (from the inside) opened in a special manner: by turning around a vertical axis in the centre of the window. Why this is superior to a normal sliding window or one that turns around hinges at the sides, I cannot fathom but I trust the Japanese expertise on this one. I suspect those special windows are meant for firefighters or other rescue workers to enter a building at the right floor in case of fire, maybe even after an earthquake.

I said above emergency entrance and no, this is no mistake. How do I know this? Because, firstly, it says so on the other side of the sticker (I took a picture of this too, but can’t find it at the moment – will upload as soon as I do) but also, secondly, I have seen those triangles on doors in the middle of smooth facades, where a safe exit is not possible, not if you forgot to bring your superman suit, that is.

Experiment

I already mentioned my addiction to chocolate at least twice, and I have – with a certain amount of shock – realized that at the moment I am eating a whole bar of chocolate (the size of a small “Milka”, that is about 100 g) per day. Not good. I mean it surely makes me feel good, especially as the weather forecast predicts “rain that periodically stops” for the whole next week, but I have the feeling that it may be a bit too much. I can almost see the weight I have lost with so much difficulty slowly creeping upwards on my thighs and hips again…

chocolate cakes

Hence, I’ll try a little experiment:
No chocolate throughout September.

Ouch, that sounds really terrible

I will allow myself – occasionally – things like hot chocolate, mostly because I don’t make it at home and there’s no decent cafe nearby so I’ll have to go downtown for this. I finished my whole not-so-secret stash of chocolate yesterday, with the exception of a “chocolate twist”, a sweet bun with maybe 2% of chocolate filling. I decided that’s allowed also as the amount of chocolate is so tiny, it’s probably less than a teaspoon full overall.

To battle the craving I have bought fruit instead. Unfortunately the Japanese view on fruit is one that demands absolute perfection, so it is really expensive. Most of it is even important, which inflates the prices even more. I may have to go to a real market instead of buying it in the supermarket if I want to have cheap fruit. However, my supermarket has a small shelf where fruit and vegetables that don’t look that perfect anymore are put and sold at a cheaper price. The choice is smaller of course, but there’s nothing wrong with slightly spotty bananas; in fact I think they taste better anyway. I’ll have to check out that shelf more often.

So far I did well. All day only a small craving during the study session (I had a kiwi and two bananas) and that was around lunch time too, so it’s okay. Right now however … I want my good night chocolate … so … badly …

Onigiri

Time to write about food again! One of the things I love about Japan is the great variety of cheap takeout. Many small restaurants provide takeout dishes if you don’t want to eat there, there are a number of sushi places that mostly cater to the takeout crowd – one in my neighbourhood has only a single table with two chairs so you can wait if you want anything extraordinary – and, of course, all the convenience stores have takeout dishes and a microwave for free use if you are extremely hurried.

My personal favourite takeout meal from the convenience store around the corner consists of various types of onigiri. They are nothing special, just rice balls with or without stuffing, about the size of a fist, mostly in triangular or oval shape, and often covered in seaweed. They are available in many flavours. The plain ones without stuffing can be only salted, or they are cooked with some red beans or other flavour and sprinkled with seaweed crumbs or black or white sesame. Sometimes they have a piece of fish on top, then they resemble an oversized piece of sushi (which is called nigiri sushi, by the way). Alternatively, onigiri can be stuffed with all sorts of things, from fish with or without mayonnaise, cooked beef or chicken, vegetables or different types of seaweed, to salty, pickled ume plums. The last type of filling is very interesting, for me it falls under “acquired taste”.

It is very easy to make onigiri at home, as they are only rice cooked with seasoning (different kinds are readily available) which is shaped and then cooled. Some people like to carefully fry the finished onigiri in oil, this is often done after a day or two when the rice has dried out too much to be tasty. ume onigiri

The convenience store bought onigiri are mostly triangular and wrapped in nori seaweed. They have a very ingenious packaging, because if the nori is in contact with the rice for too long, it becomes soggy and unpleasant to eat. So, the packaging consists of two layers of plastic, one on the outside and one that lies between the rice and the nori, separating the two until the onigiri is eaten, so that the nori always tastes fresh and crispy. Unfortunately this does not show in the picture above. There is of course a special way of unwrapping those onigiri: First you tear the package from the top corner, all the way from front to back, and then you gently pull on the left and right corner of the package to remove it from the outside and underneath the nori. How to do this is conveniently described on the package with 1 – 2 – 3 steps, I find this quite funny.

Hospital

I am taking palliative medicine.

Now that I have your attention, let me assure you: I have no plans of dying soon, despite my disease being incurable; I will die with it but not from it, as long as I take that one pill every morning before breakfast (which is what palliative medicine is, strictly speaking: relieving symptoms without curing the cause. Think of diabetes and insulin, for example.)

Unfortunately I was running out of my pills and hence, I had to see a doctor to get a new prescription. I decided to go to the Kyoto University Hospital, partly because at least the doctors there (should) speak English, and partly because it is just a stone’s throw away from Ebisu’s. The hospital accepts outpatients from 8:30 to 11:00, so I went there as early as possible.

I arrived at the responsible ward at 8:30 but was slightly surprised that it was empty of both patients and personnel. Somebody told me however, that as a first timer in the hospital, I had to register first on ground floor, counter #2. The hospital appears to be very prepared for the foreigner who does not speak Japanese: The form was in English and the staff has their usual explanations translated and compiled into a long list, so they only need to point at the right sentence in English. My old Austrian drivers licence caused some hilarity (they need a copy of an ID and I don’t carry my passport), but besides that everything went smoothly. I was issued a Hospital Card immediately and, armed with instructions and something that looked like a mobile phone I was sent back up to the responsible ward.

There, I first was handed amy Kyoto hospital cardnother form to fill in (medical history), and was then instructed to have my measurements taken. I stepped on a small platform and a machine automatically took my height (less than expected) and my weight (still too much), and then I sat at another one that took my blood pressure (all ok). Then, I had to wait.

Finally, at about 11:20, the phone rang. Well, it’s not really a phone, but some kind of oversized beeper with a large display. When it rings, a message is displayed telling you what to do next. In this case it said “come to examination room 207”, and I dutifully obeyed. The doctor, a nice middle-aged man who spoke excellent English and even some German, was already waiting with my file ready. After discussing the medication and its dosage he asked me to have a blood test done and whether I’d want to wait for the results. I agreed to that, and off I went, first to have my blood taken (everything done and over with in less than 5 minutes), then to have lunch in a coffee shop.

At about a quarter to one the phone rang and I saw the doctor again. We agreed on a slightly lower dosage than what I have been taking until now, he gave me a prescription and a new appointment in 3 months’ time.

Barely out of his examination room, my phone rang again and I was instructed – provided I was finished now – to take all my stuff to ground floor, counter #5, in order to finalise everything and to pay. The paperwork was taken by some clerk, and I was asked to wait in front of several machines where I could pay my bill. “But, how much is it?” I asked, just to get the answer: “You’ll get a message on the phone…” And so I did after maybe another 10 minutes. I put the phone into an extra slot into the machine so the amount was transferred and I could pay by inserting cash or using a card. Once the receipts were printed – very nicely on A4 paper – the phone disappeared automatically and I could leave the hospital.

I then walked across the street, picked one of the pharmacies at random, and while they were filling the prescription, I had to fill in yet another form about my medical history… It seems that Japanese love forms of every provenance.

The whole adventure including the trip to the pharmacy took about five and a half hours, but mostly that was because I had (or chose) to wait. As I have a fixed appointment for next time, it should go much faster then.

Things that surprised me:

  • They needed my mother’s name on the application form. Why?
  • Everything appears to be highly efficient. You know who’s an office clerk, a doctor, a nurse, they all wear appropriate uniforms. Everything is organised, you know exactly what to do, where to go and when. All forms are in English (even the one in the pharmacy) and the lists with the English sentences are a great help. If you are still unsure, all staff are very friendly and helpful.
  • The beeper/mobile phone. You can walk around the whole hospital or have a coffee while you are waiting. There is no need to stay put in your ward and stare at the wall. A brilliant system – and: I got the messages in English! I have heard that those beepers also work across the road in the many little restaurants – buy maybe the beepers for the doctors on call have a larger range?
  • My next appointment is in exactly three months, and I received medication to cover exactly those days – and not a single more. Instead of a full package of pills as normal in Europe, the pharmacy handed me a bunch of those blister packages tied with a rubber band in a plastic bag together with a single piece of paper stating how often I need to take them. No package insert listing all hazards when taking this medication – but it may have been different had I said that I could read Japanese.

So yes, despite the endless wait it was a rather pleasant experience, and I’m looking forward to the next appointment.

Whack!

Monday night, at around 3:45, I woke up. It felt as if something had kicked my bed (remember that I sleep on the floor) and I thought I had heard a noise as well. Nothing else happened, so I only took a look at my alarm clock and went to sleep again.

Tuesday morning however, I thought, well … actually … it could have been … So I checked the web page of the Japan Meteorological Agency, and indeed – the night before I had experienced my first earthquake during this stay in Japan! earthquake image from JMAThe details are as follows and can be found on this page: It was a small earthquake, of magnitude only 2.5 at its epicentre, which was around 10 km underground and about 22 km southwest of Ebisus’s.

Only one of my housemates felt it also. He said it was very subtle, and he heard the noise as well. He even said he expected something to happen because all the crickets suddenly went quiet…

It was a very interesting experience as it was so different from the other earthquakes I have witnessed. The bump and the noise were all – not even the lamp was shaking, but admittedly it was hard to see anything in the darkness. It was very short and only a singular occurrence, and as I said I went back to sleep immediately.

I am seriously considering to keep tally how many earthquakes I am experiencing – the ones I can feel at least. This one would be # 3 in total.

Slow

Snail on a stoneIt was a slow day again. It was raining all Sunday, and today was still overcast. The temperature dropped by about 10 degrees over the weekend – I even felt cold during the night and had to get an extra blanket – but the humidity is relatively high.

So, nothing much happened today. I studied Japanese (a little step every day…), did some research on how to become self-employed in this country (lots of different opinions and advice on that one), sent out a CV for another job with my name on it (at least this one doesn’t require “perfect” Japanese like the other position – which is still being advertised, btw…), did some shopping (I’m out of chocolate again), and wrote to yet more people I know about helping me in my job search.

Things will start moving again soon, I’m sure.

Volcano

Volcano
Shusaku Endo

cover of VolcanoJinpei Suda has just retired as the director of the local meteorological institute. He is considered the expert on the Akadate volcano that lies just across the bay. For years the volcano has been inactive, and Suda has declared it extinct. But with the arrival of a new, eager young member in the institute who challenges his judgement, Suda becomes insecure and starts to climb the volcano again.

Father Sato is exhilarated. He finally received permission to build a new church on the foot of the Akadate. It will be larger and more beautiful than any of the churches in the vicinity. The land is bought and all but cleared and he impatiently awaits the start of the construction.

(Father) Durand, however, the former priest of the parish has his doubts. He has had them for a long time now, not just about god but about almost anything. Having turned a cynical, sick old man, he hopes that the Akadate will erupt to wash away the old and make place for the new.

An interesting but rather slow novel about people’s fears and hopes and about getting old and seeing the new replacing what you have built. The stories of the three main characters above are only loosely connected; they live more next to each other than with each other. I found Durand, the expelled priest the most interesting character. His cynical doubts and painful (self-) accusations make him the most memorable of the protagonists.

I think this book is fitting to the latest eruption of Sakurajima as mentioned in Monday’s post, as the story – with the volcano across the bay looming over the city – is quite clearly set there.

Check this book out on amazon – enjoy!

Trial

I met a number of friends during my vacation and we talked a lot – fun stuff, serious things… One of my friends was surprised that I didn’t have a Japanese bank account yet. He said: “I have a bank account in Japan – I just went there and opened one.” I know he never lived in Japan, and I was also quite sure opening an account is not that easy anymore, but I thought I’d go and try anyway…

With my last adventure involving banking in Japan still in my mind, I decided to take it easy. Instead of rushing all in and saying “I want” just to be told that “you can’t”, I planned to simply go there and politely ask for the necessary documents to open an account.

There was the same nice lady as the last time, who still apologised (quite unnecessarily) for her lack of speaking English, but she was trying to help me anyway. Her verdict was a very simple: “All you need is a zairyu card”, which is a registration cardSample of a Zairyu Card for foreigners residing in Japan. Residing being the key word here – people on a tourist visa cannot apply for one. In fact, if you have a work visa (or anything else that’s not a temporary one), your zairyu card is issued right at the airport – which is very practical! Besides that, a deposit of 1 YEN, and about two weeks of patience until all cards are issued, there is nothing more you need to open a bank account in Japan.

It was worth a try, but it seems times have changed and the Japanese are now much more strict who may open a bank account in their country. I’ll have to wait a bit more then…

Moisture

It was a very nice day today, hot and comparatively dry. The maximum temperature was 38 degrees, with a humidity of about 40 percent, and it was cloudy enough that the sun didn’t heat up my room to resemble a sauna.

I took myself as usual to my favourite place at Yoshida shrine until the late afternoon, when I could hear thunder in the distance. I then sat at my window watching the storm approaching over the city from the South where there are no mountains. It took only half an hour and lots of lightning – which unfortunately I was always just a fraction too late to capture on camera – until the rain finally arrived at Ebisu’s. And then, everything was over almost as quickly. thunderstorm approaching over Kyoto

Thunderstorms in this part of the world are not overly pleasant, I think. While in Austria, a summer storm is always a reason to be grateful for as it cools the area and leaves fresh air behind, this is not so in Asia, as I had to find out before. Mostly, the rain has no cooling effect whatsoever, and there is hardly any fresh air afterwards, although there may be this nice “wet” smell lingering for a short while. Thunderstorms in these parts seem only to be there to raise the humidity, so the general feeling when one has just passed is one of increased stickiness, which is not really something to look forward to.

This time, probably because the storm came so late in the afternoon, there was an unexpected and quite refreshing drop in temperature of about 5 degrees. It does feel nice and cool right now, I may even need a blanket for the first time since I returned from vacation! Unfortunately, humidity has doubled to 80 percent – and it may stay just like that tomorrow…

Isn’t it nice to be able to complain about the weather no matter what it is and where you are? 😉