goinggaijin.com – Page 121 – A European's move towards Japan

Cool

When I got up today, a bit after 8 am, it was very cold – only 11 degrees. As we have no heating and the windows do not close tight, it is cold even indoors. At least the sun is shining already, and the weather forecast promises temperatures of up to 21 degrees for today.

Which is very good, because this is one of the days where you should be at five different places at the same time – so much is happening today in Kyoto and its surroundings… So, I’ll be off shortly and probably not home until rather late. I will report tomorrow.

Swearwords

I just received an email from home telling me that the man who had taken care of the house over summer (meaning: moving the lawn and generally keeping an eye on things) is now – perfectly timed with the onset of winter – giving up the keys and does not want to “feel responsible” any longer.

Thanks – great timing!

Of course I can see what a huge amount of work it is to pass by the house every now and then and keeping an eye on it, now that it’s winter and nothing more to do. It’s certainly something I can do much more easily from 9000 kilometers away…

Thanks again dude!
If at any time there is anything I can do for you, just let me know. I’ve been looking for an excuse to learn and try some Japanese swearwords anyway…

Wrapup

Celebrations! I managed to finish the second volume of my book Genki – Elementary Japanese in the weekend, and I feel extremely smart now 😉 It’s four more weeks until the JLPT test on December 1st and I still have a lot to do: reinforcing the grammar I’ll need for the test – thank goodness no honorific or humble language – studying many more Kanji, and learning yet much more vocabulary. I am not really sure how to prepare for the listening comprehension part of the test – other than speaking to people I mean – but I’ll find a way I’m sure.

Besides that, things are going rather slow. There was International Day at the Kyoto International Community House yesterday and I went there for lunch and bought some sweets. The mother of one of my housemates will come for a visit tomorrow and she got all wound up and cleaned the kitchen – which, in turn, spurred me into action and I cleaned my room. I always have the impression I hardly buy anything besides food, but I end up with so much stuff – paper in particular – that I then have to go through and sort and toss… Anyway, the house is ready for inspection now – mum can come!

Capsules

As you know, I went to Tokyo last weekend. As I had to go on relatively short notice, the hotel chain I usually stay in was booked solid down until Yokohama. Not willing to pay 12.000 YEN and more for a single night – the Shinkansen ticket was expensive enough – I decided to go the other way and booked – for 2.200 YEN – a place in one of those (in-) famous capsule hotels!

A capsule hotel, if you want so, is like a dormitory but with a bit more privacy. You get your own capsule, which is a hole in the wall of about the size of a bunk bed. There are usually two stacked on top of each other and you have to enter at the head or pillow side. A capsule is very basic: Besides a futon or mattress and sheets for it; a TV may be there as well. Facilities are shared, and that’s why many capsule hotels only cater to male guests, although some have own floors reserved for women. Besides towels, yukata, and slippers, no further service is offered, meaning you will not get breakfast there. Usually however, there is a communal room somewhere with vending machines, microwaves, and even computers.

So much for the theory, this is what I knew beforehand. Here is my personalized version of the adventure…

Upon arrival at the Hotel Asakusa and Capsule and after some struggling with the reservation name, I first had to buy a ticket from a vending machine opposite the front desk for the price of the accommodation. After filling in my name on the ticket, I had to put my shoes in one of the small lockers near the elevator and put on slippers. In exchange for the shoe locker key I received the key to my capsule, or so I thought. Equipped with keywords for the electronic locks and pointers to the women’s bathroom, I went up to the 6th floor and found my capsule to be one of 34 in a rather dark corridor to the left of the elevator. Right of the elevator were housed the toilets and a washroom.

Each one of the capsules was just as I expected, they had a sort of curtain instead of an entrance door (I guess it would have been too claustrophobia inducing inside otherwise, as only some of the capsules had little windows, but not mine); they key turned out to be for the closet inside the capsule, which had space only to hang two shirts. It was certainly the smallest closet I had ever seen, although I have to admit that some of the Japanese business hotels I’ve stayed in did without them altogether.

Anyway, besides the closet, the concrete capsule was equipped with a futon, pillow, and blanket, and on a shelf on the foot end stood a tiny pay TV (100 YEN/hour), with earphones discretely but in plain view located beside it. There was a light, a telephone to call the front desk, and a small ventilator which I actually did use later on because the space became stuffy rather quickly. Also provided were towels and a yukata – after all, the hotel did have one floor dedicated to a sento. I found the capsule rather spacious, it had a size 1.2 x 1.2 x 2 metres, which was enough (for me at least) to sit without bumping my head. When I lay on the futon, I could not touch the ceiling with my hands, so I did not feel claustrophobic after all, but maybe – as the hotel was a bit older – newer ones are smaller?

Looking at the picture, you will notice that there is certainly not enough space for any type of luggage, regardless of its size. Clearly, it is not a good idea to leave anything in the capsule while you’re out and about, so different sized lockers were available in the basement – for an extra charge, of course. Other add-ons were a “dining” room equipped with water cookers, microwaves, vending machines, several computers providing free internet and a TV. An interesting bit of information – provided via a notice in the elevator – was that you had to do the vending-machine check-in every day again, even if you had booked for several nights.

All in all, I found the experience very interesting – a bit dorm-like with more privacy. It was very clean everywhere and warm and quiet. Everybody was very considerate also, I only heard the other guests as they were leaving in the morning, and the place was also fully booked. I think this is certainly something to do again – provided I don’t have to get dressed decently and put on makeup again, the washrooms had terrible light…

Sento Child

I went to the sento nearby again the other day, I try to do it regularly. When I arrived, there was a mother with a small boy, maybe four years old, in the changing room. Usually, kids don’t bother me in the sento or onsen – Japanese children are very well behaved, and their mothers know how to keep them content, if the hot bath does not. However, this poor boy, half dressed, was screaming on top of his lungs, clearly unhappy about something; and just imagining this inside, in the fully tiled, cave-like bathroom, made me see my relaxing bathing gone, and made me hope “Please let them be leaving already!”.

Quickly I stripped, put my clothes into a basket and went inside the bathroom. The elderly lady next to me hardly noticed me, and I started scrubbing. (I have written about onsen etiquette elsewhere already.) Halfway through, the mother I had seen outside came in with her boy (literally) in tow, who, unfortunately, was still screaming. His tone had changed to terrified, and he was repeating a single word over and over again (which I could not make out though), but his mother, seemingly unperturbed, tried to get him cleaned anyway. This went on for a few minutes, with the boy trying to escape outside ever so often, still repeating this one word, but his mother was always faster.

It is not considered polite in Japan to complain or voice one’s discomfort about anything (unless obviously drunk), so I was very surprised when the lady next to me finally went up to the mother of the screaming boy. I would be very curious as to what she said, in any case it did the trick and when the two left the sento, peace, and quiet water splashings were restored.

Looking back, however, I do wonder what the boy was so terrified of – the hot water, the shower, all the strangers? I remember when I was small, I loved bathing – but hated having my hair washed. The water pouring over my head always terrified me, I felt like I was suffocating, so I had to be dragged there kicking and screaming. Until this day, I don’t like swimming with my head under water. (Well, I can’t swim very well anyway, let’s rather call it “struggling to keep afloat”.) Maybe the boy had had similar fears? Do all children have at some point? Pity I can’t ask him anymore.

Dentist

About two weeks ago, on a Tuesday, when I was chewing on my after-dinner sweetie, I suddenly realized that part of a tooth had gone missing… Fortunately it was an old tooth, I mean, one that has been dead for several years, so there was no pain involved.

For that reason, and also, I admit, because I am terrified of dentists, it took me a few days to make up my mind – but at least I was asking for recommendations of English speaking dentists during that time. A friend of mine finally took matters in his own hands and emailed his dentist, and after a bit of back and forth about appointments and directions I went there on Saturday morning.

The staff, despite being very friendly, spoke only rudimentary English – and they had problems with my name again – but they produced what seems to be the standard English form to fill in whenever you see a Japanese doctor: name, personal info, previous illnesses, current medication… Furthermore, not only had I to describe the problem (broken filling at lower left #6), I was also asked to draw a picture. I guess if I knew in such detail what was going on inside my mouth, I could probably also fix it myself?

Anyway, I was finally admitted to the doctor’s office and put on THE chair. From there it went straightforward as usual. After a brief look (no broken filling but the tooth itself gave way), an X-ray (probably overkill) and a discussion of options (no, I don’t want a root canal replacement, thank you so much!) the problem was quickly fixed. It was also very interesting that the dentist took pictures of my teeth. I don’t mean the X-ray, but real photographs. The camera was a very small, sticklike contraption, and the images were uploaded immediately to his computer. Let me assure you that there is nothing more encouraging of proper oral hygiene that having to face 10×10 blow-ups of what should be your pearly whites… Never before have I put so much effort in brushing…

In lieu of Japanese insurance I had to pay immediately; I was surprised that the treatment only cost 5300 YEN – and 2200 of that were the “first visit fee” which not only pays for a nice plastic card with your name on it and room for future appointments, but also for them putting in your details into their system. I also got another appointment for yesterday, where he checked the new filling again, did some polishing and sent me on my way. All in all the experience was just as expected, and it was painless too!

However, I will have to find a new dentist for the next incident. When taking the X-ray, the doctor and I went into that small X-ray cabin; he put that lead apron on me, looked at me and said “You’re beautiful”.

It was completely inappropriate. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy compliments just like the next gal, but I want them in a private setting and not during a professional meeting. I would not go so far as to accuse him of full blown seku-hara (the Japanese term for sexual harassment), but the comment did make me feel very vulnerable, and yesterday, at the checkup I was more tense than usual even for a dentist’s appointment.

I met my friend today and he tried to explain it away, saying even he gets lots of those comments from both Japanese men and women, and the doctor just wanted to be friendly; but I don’t really think there is an excuse for this behaviour. Remember that simple friendliness will not leave me uncomfortable.

Back!

I’ve returned form my weekend in Tokyo. It was nice, a little bit stressful in the beginning, but very relaxing in the end.

When I arrived in Tokyo station after 2 hours 20 (using the fastest shinkansen NOZOMI), I managed once again to take a wrong turn (I hate Tokyo station) and almost missed my friend who was waiting exactly where she promised… Anyway, we then had lunch together (after it was her turn to get lost we went for fish in miso sauce) and then we went to Tokyu Hands together, which is a large chain store catering to … Well, in the beginning they were selling craft supplies, but by now you can buy virtually anything related to bathroom/office/kitchen/travel/ … on top of that. I will not go into details here, Tokyu Hands is worth its own Saturday post. 😉

Afterwards I betook myself to my hotel near Asakusa shrine, changed and put on makeup, and then went back to the city to the Austrian embassy or rather: to the ambassador’s residence, for the reception in honour of the Austrian National Day. It was my second such reception, and I was surprised that there were so many people. Apparently there are about 500 Austrians living in Japan – at least those the embassy knows of. The Austrian embassy is a large two story building in Minato-ku, that was built in the 1980s when that area of Tokyo was less developed, which means there was enough space to have a large garden also, including koi pond!

There was entertainment (Austrian zither and Japanese koto), speeches (the ambassador and other dignitaries), more music (a wind quartet played the Austrian hymn at a time when everybody was drunk enough to dare singing, but not yet drunk enough to have forgotten the text), and, of course, Austrian food. They did not have my favourite wine, but there was plenty of Schnitzel, potato salad, “Schweinsbraten mit Knödeln”, barbecued sausages, rye bread with various bread spreads, … all finished off with “Apfelstrudel”, chocolate cake and whipped cream (of course). It was an enjoyable evening, I met lots of people, both newcomers and those who have been here for years, both Austrian and Japanese. A Japanese woman asked me to teach her the first verse of the Austrian anthem, well, I could at least write down the text, but I can’t sing… I didn’t see her during the actual singing of the anthem, I hope she did well. I even worked up the courage (on insistence from a friend of mine) to introduce myself to his excellency, the Austrian ambassador, a very nice and pleasant person indeed.

Sunday was much more relaxing, just a bit of shopping (books! winter clothes!) before I went back to Kyoto. I guess I should go out more often.

Holiday

Today is Austrian National Holiday!

How does that affect me in Japan? Well, as is customary all over the world, the Austrian embassy tonight has a reception with Austrian food and drink, so I will go up to Tokyo.

I have plans to see a friend and do some (window) shopping, it will be great fun! Anyway, that will be my post for today – but I promise to give a more detailed account next week. Watch out for a surprise … 😉

Restart

As I have encountered difficulties (to put it mildly) in finding a job in Japan without speaking the language perfectly, I thought of exploring other options. As a kind of continuation from my job at university, where you are essentially working for yourself and are fully responsible for the outcome, being self employed does sound like a good fit. Unfortunately, information on how to do this in Japan is not easily obtained (though JETRO is quite a good site), and what you do find is at best incomplete, at worst contradictory. So, I took the opportunity of the free legal counselling at the Kyoto International Community House, went to the lawyer there and prodded him for explanations.

So, if you want to be self employed in Japan, and you need a visa go to with it, then you’ll have to do the following:

Find a Japanese business partner who sets up the business for/with you. If you don’t have a work or other visa that entitles you to do that yourself, he will have to all the work from doing all the paperwork (including research on how to set up a proper Japanese style business plan) to getting the right type of seals (no signatures in Japan), to opening a bank account and renting office space. Essentially he will have to deal with all sorts and levels of bureaucracy, which may take a while to begin with. Once the company is established, he will have to run the business – at least officially – and you must
Wait until the business has made profit – provably sufficient profit that it. At some point in between you’ll have to
Invest at least 5.000.000 YEN into the company (or employ at least two Japanese people full time). Again, you must prove that the money is yours – a transfer from a foreign account under your name is sufficient. Only with all that done, finished and proved with yet more paperwork – meaning it will take you at least a year after you’ve started – can you
Apply for an investor/business manager visa, which, once granted, allows you to finally come and run your own Japanese company from Japan itself.

Easy, eh? Well… there are a few things that are still in the shade. First of all I could not find out how much profit is deemed sufficient. Nor is it clear how much you must earn as the manager of your own business once you can come, except that it has to be “more than a Japanese person would earn in the same position”. I assume that depends on the type of business you’d want to open. The bigger problem, however, – for me at least – is at the beginning already Let’s assume for a moment that I actually have all that cash (actually, it’s not even that much, in the US you’d need half a million US$), there is nobody in Japan whom I’d trust with that much, not without any guarantees. Paper doesn’t blush doesn’t come out of nowhere, and for many people, the temptation threshold lies far below that amount…

Had I been better prepared for the interview, I could have counted the number of times the lawyer used the word impossible…

So, once again, I find myself back at square one: I need a job.

Jidai Matsuri

Yesterday was the last of the three big festivals in Kyoto, Jidai matsuri (the other two are Aoi and Gion matsuri). Literally the name translates as Period Festival, but it is better known in English as the Festival of the Ages, and that although it has a history of rather short 120 years only.The first Jidai matsuri took place in 1895, 1100 years after Kyoto had become the capital of Japan, and only a few years after it had lost that place to Tokyo when the emperor moved his household there. Jidai matsuri is – like most of the festivals in Japan – connected to a shrine, and in this case it is Heian shrine (named after the old name of Kyoto: Heian-kyo) , which is a 2/3 scale replica of the former imperial palace, was built also in 1895, and enshrines the first (Kanmu) and the last emperor (Komei) that had Kyoto as residence.The idea behind Jidai matsuri is to showcase not only Kyoto’s history, but that of all Japan, and this is done with a long costume procession “back in time” from the Meiji era through the long Edo period of peace until the famous Heian era. About 2000 people form the procession, wearing traditional clothing, not only the well known ones of famous samurai going to war or court ladies of leisure, no, also normal people in their work clothing and straw sandals, are walking the streets of Kyoto from the imperial palace to Heian shrine.Of course, there are additional props that can’t be missing: samurai on horses accompanied by stable boys and soldiers on foot with weapons ranging from the long rifles of the Meiji era to the swords of the earlier periods. Court ladies in lavish kimono comprised of several layers were carried along on platforms or walk underneath large umbrellas. People carrying flowers or offerings for the shrine followed two mikoshi that held the spirits of the two emperors mentioned above, and a large wagon with undetermined contents was drawn by a black ox. And in between, large groups of people were playing music – on seemingly modern flutes and drums at first, then on instruments that I have only seen during religious ceremonies, and finally there was a lone soldier blowing on a horn made from a large shell.There is an enormous amount of attention paid to every detail of every costume: from the appropriate hairstyle (sometimes accomplished using wigs) to the clothing itself (some of the samurai wore loudly clanging heavy armour) and all the accessories (helmets, jewelry, war fans and weapons, ladles and buckets to water the horses) down to the footwear – boots and sandals made from rice straw. It is a real joy to watch, and it takes – nomen est omen – ages until the procession passes by any one point – more than two hours altogether.What I found most exciting though was that the participants of the procession gathered on the pathways of the imperial gardens before the start, so you can watch the participants getting dressed, having lunch, or posing for pictures – some of them even selfies 😉 This was different from the Aoi festival in May where the procession started from within the palace and the participants were not seen before. Somehow the fact that they were just gathering “in the open” so to speak, gave me the feeling of a rather relaxed, fun thing – as opposed to Aoi – but maybe that’s because Aoi is more of a religious ritual than Jidai matsuri?