Exhausted

I am very tired these days. I am busy looking for a new place to live and it proves to be very difficult indeed…

As I said, I would prefer to rent a house if possible, but all of the old houses I have seen so far are rather small and somewhat unpractical, and incredibly dark. There was this lovely old house I have been to, where the genkan, the front entrance, had three stepping-stones amidst a floor strewn with pebbles. I loved the house immediately. Unfortunately, the rest of the interior was not quite up to scratch… The top floor appeared to have been newly renovated, the two rooms were both very light and had an airy feel.

However, the ground floor… The kitchen was tiny, very old and could have used at least some cleaning, if not outright renovation. Ditto the bathroom. Given the amount of time I spend in the bathroom each day, I really don’t need one of those huge “oasis” kind of things that are so popular in the West these days. However, when I bow to spit during my toothbrushing, I prefer not to hit the wall opposite the wash basin with my behind. And I think it is a bonus if I can get to the shower without squeezing through the 30 cm that are left once the washing machine is in its place. If the bathroom had been in a better state, one might convince me to live with a Japanese squatting toilet though. I’m not a big fan of those – I still don’t know how to go “big” there – but if the rest of the house is okay, I’d just suck it up I guess.

It was not, however. The house was old enough to have a little garden in the back and a whole glass front between it and the adjacent living room – but still, the light from the garden did not even reach half of the living room, which was only six tatami, 12 square metres. Given my almost life-long intimate knowledge of depression, a dark place is something I definitely cannot live in. I certainly have no need to invite depression to follow me to Japan… Maybe, if the ground floor was renovated like the rooms upstairs, and painted with lighter colours, the house would actually be quite pleasant. But it’s not something I can wait for.

I have seen a number of apartments so far, and they are equally drab: rather dark and pretty small. I know now that the size of tatami must have changed over the years. I am quite sure that the six tatami from my room would not fit into any of the six tatami-rooms I have seen on my quest for a new place so far.

Anyway, I’m not giving up. Although it is exhausting, I will keep looking for that perfect place. You’ll hear from me when I find it.sleeping cat at Toshogu Shrine

Anticipation

It was very cold today. Although it was sunny throughout the day, the temperatures did not rise much beyond 4 degrees, the wind was so heavy. The house is old and the windows don’t close properly, and together with the cracks in my walls, it is rather draughty in my room.

So, I have rearranged my little bit of furniture a little, essentially I have put my table away from the window and in front of my futon, so I can sit all day in front of my computer wrapped into my futon, and thus stay warm. This is what I did all through last winter, I hope it will work a second time. I have also placed the little electric heater on top of the table so my hands will stay warm while typing. It’s an experiment, I’m not sure it will work.

today's weather forecastIn the north-western parts of Japan it is snowing. It is very early this winter, but the forecast for tomorrow is predicting snow also for Kyoto. On the one hand I know that it will become very, very cold in the house, but on the other hand, I prefer a winter – especially around Christmas – with snow. I have already set my alarm clock for 7 in the morning tomorrow, just in case everything will be white and I’ll need to go out and shoot pictures. And maybe build a snowman.

Say hello to my inner child… And wish me luck!

Housing

I have decided to move out. As soon as possible. I was planning to move out of Ebisu’s some time next year anyway, so the thought is not completely new, although I was not planning on doing it quite so quickly.

The main reason is that the house has turned (almost) into student’s dorm central… Of the six rooms that are occupied right now, five of them belong to students in their early 20s. Not that they are partying all the time, not at all (and I am rather surprised by that), and they are all very nice and considerate. It’s just that they sit and talk for hours on end. Which is not a problem as such, had they not chosen as their favourite discussion forum the room just underneath mine – and I think I have made ample remarks about the thin walls and ceilings of the house already… As I said, they are not deliberately noisy, they are just talking, so there’s nothing I can say, that would be unfair. However, it sounds like there is a TV running in the background all the time, and I really don’t want to have that in my own home.

Solution: fast track the moving plans. I am looking for something with at least two bedrooms, and there are sufficiently many places to choose from, if not necessarily in my neighborhood. It seems even possible to rent a whole – older – house for the price of a similarly sized but newer apartment, and to be honest, I am leaning towards this, as I have always lived in a house and like the simple fact that there is an “upstairs”.

I have already asked my tandem partner for a few phrases that may come handy when looking for or at a house or apartment. There are also a number of very small rental agencies in my neighborhood where I can go to and see what’s on offer.

In a way I have started the process two weeks ago already… On the other side of the hill, there is this wonderful strange old house in this beautiful garden. It is strange because it is old – and it consists of a Western part in front and a Japanese part in the back. I first saw it about half a year ago I guess – and fell madly in love with it. I have always liked old houses, and this one fits virtually every of my bills… Several weeks ago, when I passed by the house again – there was a sign “For Sale”.

Immediately, I put all of my friends and acquaintances to work to help me contact the agent – I just had to see this house. It is very old and – almost the standard in Japan – in a very bad state, and I was afraid that it would be sold to one of those awful developers who would tear it down and build a mansion instead of it or something equally ugly, before I had seen it.

And this morning, I had an appointment with the agent to see the house! I was very excited to finally be able to get in and check it out. It is as I had expected: absolutely gorgeous and wonderful – and huge! The house has two floors, the Western part has two rooms on each floor which are bright with large windows and high ceilings with stucco; and there are even fireplaces in the rooms upstairs and something that looks like a tiled stove on the ground floor. The Japanese part is very traditional – low ceilings, dark wood and shoji, tokonoma and tatami everywhere. Altogether there are three bathrooms and two kitchens in the house, and around 15 rooms in the Japanese part if I remember correctly.

The house is about 100 years old, and was apparently built by a medical doctor who was working at Kyoto University. It is even possible that the university had financed the building of the house, and at that time having Western style rooms was very hip. It seems that the house was used both as living space and as practice – in the front room on the second floor there is something in a corner that looks like a washbasin. Another reason for the size of the house is, that the professor’s students were living there as well – something completely normal in that era.

I absolutely love that house, and the garden – about 1200 square metres – is equally gorgeous with old trees and lilies growing wild… Unfortunately, as I said, the house is in a very sad state – I will add some pictures tomorrow – and I think that besides the price of the house (which is actually the price of the land) one would have to spend an equal amount on renovations…

It’s such a pity I cannot buy it and renovate it, it would be wonderful. But, it’s out of my budget, by about a factor of 15. Not counting any renovations here… No, I have not yet made my peace with it, but I will eventually, I am sure. And maybe, I will find another old house somewhere that I can personally save from the rampant “mansionitis”…

main entrance to the houseback side - verandahback side - japanese partinside - groundfloor western partinside first floor - practice

Bureaucracy

In Asia, many large, legally binding transactions, whether business (buying a house or car) or private (getting married) still require the involved parties to use personal seals rather than signatures. Many people use different seals for different purposes, the more important the business, the more important the seal. The transactions mentioned above require a personal seal that is registered with the local ward the person lives in, and is thus of the highest level. These seals – in Japan they are generally called inkan or hanko – are often elaborately carved, unique pieces that can be very expensive and usually accompany a person throughout their (adult) life.

For practical reasons, and in view of a few important things coming up, I have decided to get my own registered seal or jitsuin, and, armed with my own elaborate design based on my last name, I went to a hanko-ya, a seal-carving shop last week. I must have chosen the most uninspired seal makers of town, because there my problems started…

First of all, they could not tell me whether my design would be acceptable by law. This makes sense, as for foreigners, there are strict rules a jitsuin has to adhere to, and apparently, they even differ from one town to the next. So, I went to city hall (which, thankfully, was not far from the shop) and I spent about one hour discussing with a very friendly young staff member which type of seal would be permissible for me. It seems that in Kyoto (and she stressed that emphatically), I can have a seal containing my last name, my first name, or both in either romaji, roman alphabet, or in katakana. I am not allowed an abbreviation of (parts of) the name, for example initials only, and: The thing must be recognisable as my name! This surprised me quite a bit, because I know that these seals for Japanese often contain very old-fashioned kanji that the modern Japanese probably would not recognise. Also, whenever such a seal is used, it must be accompanied with proof of its registration anyway – which you only get with proper identification…

In any case, she was not swayed, so my beautiful self-designed idea based on my last name with lots of flourishes and hidden letters (although all of them were there, I swear!) was out. So, I asked about katakana on my seal and made a quick, improvised sketch of something. After going back to check with somebody in the know, she returned and said: “Yes, this is possible, and it’s very nice, but you first have to register a heikimei.” Excuse me, a what? We could not quite find common ground on this one. Only at home, when checking the kanji she wrote down for me (併記名) it turned out that it literally means “also shown name”, the Japanese translate it as “pronunciation name”, essentially a way of writing your (foreign) name in katakana. So, in order to be allowed to use a seal with katakana, I first have to register those katakana as equivalent with my name. While it sounds a bit odd, it does make sense from a legal point of view. I guess. In any case, after we both had confirmed that I can register both the heikimei and the seal at the same ward office on the same day, I thanked her profusely and went back to the hanko-ya.

There, my problems went from bad to worse. Now they informed me that there was no way they could possibly furnish me with a seal carved in romaji, as this is nothing they are capable of. Then I said, okay, good, here is an easy design of my first name in katakana, with the syllables nicely flowing together. Oh, no, this was not something they could possibly do either, after all there is a machine doing the carving and the machine cannot possibly be told to move that one kana a bit to the left and the other a bit to the right and besides and anyway…

As I did not know any other hanko-ya to go to, I relented, and they took three days to tell that ominous machine in their backyard to carve the most uninspired and most ugly seal they ever made. I showed it to my friends for commiseration, but interestingly they found it cute – they had never seen a katakana seal before. Well, I thought, as long as it does the trick for registration…

registration card for jitsumeiThis afternoon, I went to my ward office to register my heikimei and the seal, and to get a seal certificate as proof that the seal is really my official seal. I braced myself for severe difficulties again, but everything went smoothly. An assistant who is only there to assist people – Japanese and foreign alike – to fill out forms and put them on the right chair, filled out all the forms I needed. For the seal registration, I had to put the seal on the registration form and on a small extra slip of paper – the clerk explained that I should make an extra effort there because this imprint would be scanned and thus entered into the database. After maybe 15 minutes time in total and after paying 350 YEN, I received a registration confirmation and the registration card pictured above. If ever I need a new proof of registration, I’ll only need to show this card and a new document will be issued promptly.

Japanese bureaucracy does not cease to amaze me. Some things take ages and lots of “it can’t be done” interjections – those are the ones the typical foreigner thinks they should be straightforward – and other things – where you think they are virtually impossible – they have pat down and systemized and everything is finished within five minutes…

Cute anecdote on the side: I was called to the payment counter by name by an older man, whose first question was – in perfect German: “Sprechen Sie Englisch?” “Ich kann das auch auf Deutsch”, I replied and we then proceeded in English after all. I guess he saw my nationality in the paperwork, but I was indeed surprised – you don’t find that many Japanese  who speak German.

Mail

Yesterday, I got mail! Well, actually – as our doorbell does not work – there was a notice in the letterbox that I had received a registered letter in my absence. I could not really make out the sender – too many Kanji in a row – but it started with “Kyoto City…”

I have been a foreign resident in many countries and receiving unsolicited mail from any government related source (especially if registered) very quickly produces a very specific thing: A knot in my stomach. The first thing I did was checking my visa: No, expiration date is still some time in May next year, so this was unlikely to be the issue. I relaxed a little and took some time to look up all the Kanji and the sender appeared to be my health insurance. Okay okay, yes, I was indeed 4 days late with my last payment, but there is really no need to get that personal and registered within less than a week…

letter from my health insuranceWhen I finally picked up the letter from the post office in the evening, all my stomach troubles turned out to have been for nothing: I simply received – like all the other Japanese – a new health insurance card. It seems that you are issued a new card every year by the end of November. The new one is green-ish, but besides the colour nothing has changed.

On the back of the card there is a little form on which you can indicate whether you’d like to be an organ donor, and under which circumstances. The default state is NO, but you can also agree to your organs being harvested in case of cardiac arrest or in case of brain death + cardiac arrest. I like this idea of doing it; it is very straightforward and easy to do, and the nicest thing about it is that you can change your mind every year. Apparently, not many Japanese allow their organs to be taken, which is a pity. I don’t care what happens to any leftovers once I’m dead, so I said YES.

Free time!

I have a week off with no appointments whatsoever! My soroban sensei has his autumn vacation this week (which he spends by going to Italy and teaching soroban there) and my German-Japanese tandem partner has a lot of irons in his fire right now, so he too cancelled our meeting this week. Hence: I have vacation too! There are a few things I’d like to do:

Tomorrow seems to be a market at Kamigamo shrine, which might be nice, and nearby is the botanical garden of Kyoto which is probably very nice although it is still too early for the momiji.

Also, a friend of mine has given me a ticket for a private house that once belonged to a potter and which is still in the original state and functions now as museum for his works.

Speaking of museum: The Kyoto National Museum currently has an exhibition of so-called national treasures of Japan, often beautiful pieces of applied art, which I had wanted to see anyway.

And, finally, there is an interesting ritual involving rice cakes in a shrine not far from my place on Saturday…

Well, let’s see what I can accomplish this week. To be honest, I never had anything against lazy vacations with lots of books and chocolates either…

Studying

The other day, when I was returning from my favourite temple, an elderly man started talking to me. In good English, although using simple words and sentences, he asked me where I was from, how I liked Japan, the standard chat. When I said I lived in Kyoto, he warmed up a bit more, showed me a little booklet with a number of English phrases, and finally explained that he liked to talk to foreigners because he wanted to practise his English. The reason why he is studying English in the first place are the Olympic Games in Tokyo in 2020 – yes, that’s 6 years from now – and he said he was making an effort in anticipation of all the foreigners who would come to Japan during that time so he was able “to give good directions”. I can’t help chuckling a little about this reason, but hey, he has a goal to strive towards with his lessons! We said goodbye with mutual “gambatte!”

a page from my Japanese dictionaryToday I received a letter from the mother of my Nagoyan friend. It was a very interesting letter – written in English, German, and Japanese! She started out stating her purpose in English: She had translated a Japanese children’s song into German, hoping that I would understand what was going on despite her bad grammar – the song was cute and her translation very good. Her goal is to learn German because she wants to go and visit Germany a few years down the road, and she’d like to correspond with me to learn a bit more easily.  I will start answering her letters in German and Japanese – I hope we both can learn something this way…

Anticipation

Tomorrow is the day of the daimonji, the end of the Obon-festival, where on the mountains surrounding Kyoto five huge bonfires will be lit to guide home the spirits that were visiting the Earth during Obon.

A friend of mine has secured a place on the roof of a building from where you are able to see at least four of the bonfires, if not all five of them, and I was planning to go there tomorrow evening and write a post with pictures.

Unfortunately, it has started to rain, and tomorrow’s weather forecast talks about “rain that periodically stops”… Usually, the festivals in Kyoto take place regardless of the weather, but I am not very confident that there will be the daimonji tomorrow. If it rains too much it will be impossible to see the fires – provided they can be lit at all. As far as I could find out, only once the daimonji had to be postponed by one day, let’s hope the second time won’t be tomorrow.

I’ll post an update and pictures when the daimonji has taken place.

Payments

The resident status I now have in Japan does not only come with the upside of being able to stay without being pestered, have a bank account, own a mobile phone (theoretically that is), … but also with the downside of having to pay taxes and health insurance.

Payment slips for health insuranceI just received a deposit slip for each month of this fiscal year (ending in March 2015) so I can pay my health insurance. It is very cheap, only 1800 YEN/month, but this is only because health insurance is calculated from your income of the year before, and if you didn’t have any, you only pay the minimum. People do say that in general, Japanese health insurance is very expensive, and on top of that you’ll still have to pay 30% of every bill in patient’s contribution; but obviously, so far I cannot really complain.

As the insurance company does not have my account number, I will have to pay the amount in cash by the end of every month. I just hope I will not forget that, I have heard they become rather unpleasant if you are not paying. Together with the stack of deposit slips, there were forms that appear to be debit orders, but as I cannot read them to be certain, and as my account is suspiciously empty anyway, there is no rush to do anything about that for now. I will get to it eventually.

Writing

I am very busy these days with lots of writing assignments, some of them self-imposed, some of them from the outside…

For one, I have to write a journal detailing my soroban classes. While not every class needs a long writeup, I like to write at least a short summary quicly, so I can later point to it and say: Well, that’s what I’ve done!

Second, I have been busy for a couple of months now working on a larger translation project, self-imposed, sure, but I don’t want to take forever with it. Also, I have now found some people to help me with corrections, and I cannot keep them waiting forever. I will write a more detailed post about this when the work is further along.

Third, a friend of mine urged me to do some creative writing of my own, saying that it may be a good thing for me to do right now and that there may never be a better time to do that. Hence, I took her advice and try to get some things off my chest, and I am considering to write an alphabiography for that purpose.

Finally, I am still committed to this blog, although as you see, by the end of the day I am rather tired of writing, and, as I am not getting out much, there are not that many news to report at the moment. Please bear with me for a while.

However, maybe it won’t take that long, as next week will be the main parade of Gion matsuri, and also yoiyama the night before, and in the evening of the day of the parade I will have my soroban test and the day after I will go with a friend to the opening of a new exhibition at Miho museum…

It really seems being busy comes in waves, and I’m surfing up one right now…