Karasu Sumo

Today was the ninth day of the ninth month, an auspicious day in Shinto religion (the last uneven month of the year – only single digits count I guess?) and once again, this called for a purification rite. Today, at Kamigamo shrine there was first a ceremonial offering of flowers – chrysanthemums – and, following that, entertainment for the gods: sumo wrestling.

The ceremony started at 10 am with the wrestlers – 18 boys – purifying themselves in one of the rivers of Kamigamo shrine. They all wore the traditional fundoshi loincloth and only a thin jacket, I’m sure they must have been cold even though the weather was nice. Then some more purification rites took place, with elaborate bowing to the river and waving of the white paper; but one of them involved a number of small arrows of maybe 30 cm length – that was certainly a new one for me. The offering of the chrysanthemums took place at the main hall of the shrine, but I did not dare to give up my front row spot for the sumo, so I cannot report any details on that.

Anyway, at some point the party returned and joined the spectators. A woman and two children, dressed in Heian style kimono (12 layers, remember) and some shinto priests seated themselves inside a wooden hall. Before it, a sumo ring had been installed, and the boys, divided into two groups, were seated to the left and right of it, or as it’s called in Japan to the East and West. Then the ring itself was purified by shinto priests, one from each side. Both drew a figure eight into the ring and walked along it. I am very curious what the reason for this is, but I could not find out. Then, after some offerings for the gods and each group stepping into the ring, bowing to the main guests in the hall and performing more rituals, the sumo bouts started.two boys sumo wrestlingThere were four rounds of bouts. The first one the boys from the East and West competed against each other according to their rank, from the lowest rank to the highest. The other three rounds were different, here the winner of the bout could stay in the ring to meet his next opponent. It was very exciting to watch, I did not expect that. The boys were so serious about winning, and still they had so much obvious fun, it was exhilarating. It was almost like watching adult sumo, albeit with slight modifications and minor lapses of protocol, but the bouts themselves were just as exciting as with the big boys. Some of the bouts were over pretty quickly, while others, especially with the boys of higher rank, took some time and you could see some quite nice techniques at work.

After the sumo wrestling was over, a small cup of chrysanthemum sake was offered to all spectators. It was considered to be free of charge, but most people made a small donation anyway. I did not notice anything particularly flowery about the sake, but  I am not an expert.pouring of chrysanthemum sakeAnd then, everything was over. I always find it interesting how quickly even the biggest crowds disperse in Japan. It seems that hanging around and staying for an extra chat is not something the Japanese are used to – well, not if even a restaurant visit is politely finished after two hours… This time it addionally surprised me that after the whole ceremonial beginnings and purifications and everything the whole thing ended rather unspectacularly – with a simple group photo…

Typhoon

The weather has improved, the temperatures are back in the low thirties which I find more acceptable at this time of the year compared to the low to mid twenties it had at the beginning of the week.

satellite image of a typhoon The reason for the very heavy rain that lasted several days almost without breaks was Doraji, the 17th typhoon of this season in SE Asia. It travelled quite some distance, was supposed to hit Korea, but decided instead to go to Japan and make landfall at the southern tip of Shikoku early on Wednesday. Doraji pushed the heavy rain in front of it. When I went out on Wednesday, within five minutes my jeans were soaked up to the knees, not to speak of my sneakers…

With the rain came a severe drop in temperature of about 10 degrees. During the day it was okay, at least the humidity wasn’t too annoying. But it became really cold in the night. I have what is called a “hot carpet” in my room, that is a carpet with some electrical wiring inside that can be heated so you can sit on something warm. It lies underneath my futon, and I was very happy to use it in the night from Wednesday to Thursday. Another housemate of mine who is staying downstairs where it is usually cooler than in my room used her heavy sleeping bag, even during the evening. I am glad it’s over, but I have to say I do not look forward to winter time here – there’s no central heating in the house…

Buildings

image of a hotel in kyoto

Take a look at the picture to the left.

What’s wrong with this building?

 

I mean, there’s nothing wrong with it as such, it’s a perfectly fine building.

In fact, this is a hotel near Teramachi street in Kyoto.

 

Anyway, there is something about this building you’ll only find in Japan.

Take another, closer look.

 

And?

Found anything?

 

Do you notice the red triangles on some of the windows? Those stickers can be found on many windows of government or other public buildings, but also large apartment blocks or high buildings like this hotel sport these red triangles. They mark those windows that are emergency entrances. I am not sure if all of them have the same design, but the one I have checked (from the inside) opened in a special manner: by turning around a vertical axis in the centre of the window. Why this is superior to a normal sliding window or one that turns around hinges at the sides, I cannot fathom but I trust the Japanese expertise on this one. I suspect those special windows are meant for firefighters or other rescue workers to enter a building at the right floor in case of fire, maybe even after an earthquake.

I said above emergency entrance and no, this is no mistake. How do I know this? Because, firstly, it says so on the other side of the sticker (I took a picture of this too, but can’t find it at the moment – will upload as soon as I do) but also, secondly, I have seen those triangles on doors in the middle of smooth facades, where a safe exit is not possible, not if you forgot to bring your superman suit, that is.

Hospital

I am taking palliative medicine.

Now that I have your attention, let me assure you: I have no plans of dying soon, despite my disease being incurable; I will die with it but not from it, as long as I take that one pill every morning before breakfast (which is what palliative medicine is, strictly speaking: relieving symptoms without curing the cause. Think of diabetes and insulin, for example.)

Unfortunately I was running out of my pills and hence, I had to see a doctor to get a new prescription. I decided to go to the Kyoto University Hospital, partly because at least the doctors there (should) speak English, and partly because it is just a stone’s throw away from Ebisu’s. The hospital accepts outpatients from 8:30 to 11:00, so I went there as early as possible.

I arrived at the responsible ward at 8:30 but was slightly surprised that it was empty of both patients and personnel. Somebody told me however, that as a first timer in the hospital, I had to register first on ground floor, counter #2. The hospital appears to be very prepared for the foreigner who does not speak Japanese: The form was in English and the staff has their usual explanations translated and compiled into a long list, so they only need to point at the right sentence in English. My old Austrian drivers licence caused some hilarity (they need a copy of an ID and I don’t carry my passport), but besides that everything went smoothly. I was issued a Hospital Card immediately and, armed with instructions and something that looked like a mobile phone I was sent back up to the responsible ward.

There, I first was handed amy Kyoto hospital cardnother form to fill in (medical history), and was then instructed to have my measurements taken. I stepped on a small platform and a machine automatically took my height (less than expected) and my weight (still too much), and then I sat at another one that took my blood pressure (all ok). Then, I had to wait.

Finally, at about 11:20, the phone rang. Well, it’s not really a phone, but some kind of oversized beeper with a large display. When it rings, a message is displayed telling you what to do next. In this case it said “come to examination room 207”, and I dutifully obeyed. The doctor, a nice middle-aged man who spoke excellent English and even some German, was already waiting with my file ready. After discussing the medication and its dosage he asked me to have a blood test done and whether I’d want to wait for the results. I agreed to that, and off I went, first to have my blood taken (everything done and over with in less than 5 minutes), then to have lunch in a coffee shop.

At about a quarter to one the phone rang and I saw the doctor again. We agreed on a slightly lower dosage than what I have been taking until now, he gave me a prescription and a new appointment in 3 months’ time.

Barely out of his examination room, my phone rang again and I was instructed – provided I was finished now – to take all my stuff to ground floor, counter #5, in order to finalise everything and to pay. The paperwork was taken by some clerk, and I was asked to wait in front of several machines where I could pay my bill. “But, how much is it?” I asked, just to get the answer: “You’ll get a message on the phone…” And so I did after maybe another 10 minutes. I put the phone into an extra slot into the machine so the amount was transferred and I could pay by inserting cash or using a card. Once the receipts were printed – very nicely on A4 paper – the phone disappeared automatically and I could leave the hospital.

I then walked across the street, picked one of the pharmacies at random, and while they were filling the prescription, I had to fill in yet another form about my medical history… It seems that Japanese love forms of every provenance.

The whole adventure including the trip to the pharmacy took about five and a half hours, but mostly that was because I had (or chose) to wait. As I have a fixed appointment for next time, it should go much faster then.

Things that surprised me:

  • They needed my mother’s name on the application form. Why?
  • Everything appears to be highly efficient. You know who’s an office clerk, a doctor, a nurse, they all wear appropriate uniforms. Everything is organised, you know exactly what to do, where to go and when. All forms are in English (even the one in the pharmacy) and the lists with the English sentences are a great help. If you are still unsure, all staff are very friendly and helpful.
  • The beeper/mobile phone. You can walk around the whole hospital or have a coffee while you are waiting. There is no need to stay put in your ward and stare at the wall. A brilliant system – and: I got the messages in English! I have heard that those beepers also work across the road in the many little restaurants – buy maybe the beepers for the doctors on call have a larger range?
  • My next appointment is in exactly three months, and I received medication to cover exactly those days – and not a single more. Instead of a full package of pills as normal in Europe, the pharmacy handed me a bunch of those blister packages tied with a rubber band in a plastic bag together with a single piece of paper stating how often I need to take them. No package insert listing all hazards when taking this medication – but it may have been different had I said that I could read Japanese.

So yes, despite the endless wait it was a rather pleasant experience, and I’m looking forward to the next appointment.

Whack!

Monday night, at around 3:45, I woke up. It felt as if something had kicked my bed (remember that I sleep on the floor) and I thought I had heard a noise as well. Nothing else happened, so I only took a look at my alarm clock and went to sleep again.

Tuesday morning however, I thought, well … actually … it could have been … So I checked the web page of the Japan Meteorological Agency, and indeed – the night before I had experienced my first earthquake during this stay in Japan! earthquake image from JMAThe details are as follows and can be found on this page: It was a small earthquake, of magnitude only 2.5 at its epicentre, which was around 10 km underground and about 22 km southwest of Ebisus’s.

Only one of my housemates felt it also. He said it was very subtle, and he heard the noise as well. He even said he expected something to happen because all the crickets suddenly went quiet…

It was a very interesting experience as it was so different from the other earthquakes I have witnessed. The bump and the noise were all – not even the lamp was shaking, but admittedly it was hard to see anything in the darkness. It was very short and only a singular occurrence, and as I said I went back to sleep immediately.

I am seriously considering to keep tally how many earthquakes I am experiencing – the ones I can feel at least. This one would be # 3 in total.

Trial

I met a number of friends during my vacation and we talked a lot – fun stuff, serious things… One of my friends was surprised that I didn’t have a Japanese bank account yet. He said: “I have a bank account in Japan – I just went there and opened one.” I know he never lived in Japan, and I was also quite sure opening an account is not that easy anymore, but I thought I’d go and try anyway…

With my last adventure involving banking in Japan still in my mind, I decided to take it easy. Instead of rushing all in and saying “I want” just to be told that “you can’t”, I planned to simply go there and politely ask for the necessary documents to open an account.

There was the same nice lady as the last time, who still apologised (quite unnecessarily) for her lack of speaking English, but she was trying to help me anyway. Her verdict was a very simple: “All you need is a zairyu card”, which is a registration cardSample of a Zairyu Card for foreigners residing in Japan. Residing being the key word here – people on a tourist visa cannot apply for one. In fact, if you have a work visa (or anything else that’s not a temporary one), your zairyu card is issued right at the airport – which is very practical! Besides that, a deposit of 1 YEN, and about two weeks of patience until all cards are issued, there is nothing more you need to open a bank account in Japan.

It was worth a try, but it seems times have changed and the Japanese are now much more strict who may open a bank account in their country. I’ll have to wait a bit more then…

Moisture

It was a very nice day today, hot and comparatively dry. The maximum temperature was 38 degrees, with a humidity of about 40 percent, and it was cloudy enough that the sun didn’t heat up my room to resemble a sauna.

I took myself as usual to my favourite place at Yoshida shrine until the late afternoon, when I could hear thunder in the distance. I then sat at my window watching the storm approaching over the city from the South where there are no mountains. It took only half an hour and lots of lightning – which unfortunately I was always just a fraction too late to capture on camera – until the rain finally arrived at Ebisu’s. And then, everything was over almost as quickly. thunderstorm approaching over Kyoto

Thunderstorms in this part of the world are not overly pleasant, I think. While in Austria, a summer storm is always a reason to be grateful for as it cools the area and leaves fresh air behind, this is not so in Asia, as I had to find out before. Mostly, the rain has no cooling effect whatsoever, and there is hardly any fresh air afterwards, although there may be this nice “wet” smell lingering for a short while. Thunderstorms in these parts seem only to be there to raise the humidity, so the general feeling when one has just passed is one of increased stickiness, which is not really something to look forward to.

This time, probably because the storm came so late in the afternoon, there was an unexpected and quite refreshing drop in temperature of about 5 degrees. It does feel nice and cool right now, I may even need a blanket for the first time since I returned from vacation! Unfortunately, humidity has doubled to 80 percent – and it may stay just like that tomorrow…

Isn’t it nice to be able to complain about the weather no matter what it is and where you are? 😉

Lights

As I have mentioned on Monday, from August 14th through 16th the Festival of the Dead, or Obon, is celebrated in the Kansai region of Japan. The idea is that the ancestors of each family come back from the realm of the Dead to visit their offspring, are worshipped and treated to some goodies, and then are sent off again.

How this is celebrated depends on the region, but very often it has something to do with fire and light to guard the spirits. For example, I have seen in a comparatively small town in Nagano province, where many people own a house with garden, that during Obon small fires are lit at the entrance of each house so the spirits can find their way home easily. Here in Kyoto, at the Higashi Otani Cemetery for example, lamps with real candles are lit at the huge graveyard, and people can come and worship their ancestors during the early evening, bringing flowers and little offerings – I have even seen a cup of sake here and there.

higashi otani cemetery at obonThe important part of Obon however, is to make sure that the ghosts don’t linger for too long. They are sent off – once more with fire and lights – on August 16th. Again, the ceremony depends on the region. Where there is a prominent river or lake or maybe even the sea, little paper lanterns are inscribed with the name of the dead person and then set afloat on the water, so the spirit goes, accompanied by the light of the candle, home to the ocean.

One of the most spectacular ways of sending off the spirits is happening in Kyoto (where else). It is called the Gosan-no-Okuribi (literally the Five Mountains Send Off Fire) or more simply the Daimonji. Kyoto has mountains on three of its sides, and on the flanks of the northern ones (counterclockwise from east to west) five huge bonfires are lit at 8 pm on August 16th. Each bonfire has a specific shape: The first one (the daimonji) is the kanji for “big”, the second one (myo and ho) the kanji for the Buddhist concept of “dharma”. The third one (funagata) has the shape of a boat the souls can ride in, the fourth one is another “big” kanji (called the left one to distinguish it from the first), and the last one is in the shape of a shrine gate or “torii”. The fires are lit at intervals of 5 to 10 minutes and only last for about 20 minutes, to keep it sweet and short.

daimonji character for "big"The worshipping of the ancestors at the cemetery, including light and fire rituals of one sort or the other, is done all over Japan, and of course it is necessary to travel home for that. Hence, although Obon is not a national holiday, many small and family run businesses close and allow their employees a few days to go home. This makes travelling during Obon very stressful, as there are so many people abroad, but interestingly, it is relatively easy to find a hotel (unless you insist on something small and family-owned) – clearly everybody stays with family.

I will write a bit more about Obon in my post tomorrow.

Electric Sento

Near Ebisus’s there is a small sento or public bath. A sento follows the same principle as an onsen – another type of public bath – but there are small differences: The biggest one is that a sento does not draw its water from its own well. Sento use normal tap water which does not have any minerals in it. Also, traditionally, a sento consists of an entrance/changing room and then the bathroom with at least one large tub. The facilities for men and women are next to each other, mirrored along a separating wall – which does not reach to the ceiling! So, you can hear what’s going on on the other side. Modern sento are almost sterile and boring affairs with white tiling all over, but I have seen old ones with beautiful paintings on the walls – and a considerably lower separating wall…

Image of a sento
Image of a traditional sento - the women's side - from an old book

The other day I went, one of my housemates in tow, to said sento nearby Ebisu’s. It had four adjacent tubs, all with the same water temperature (onsen usually have several, differently tempered tubs). One tub was scented with lemon (the smell of the week), there was a large and deep normal tub and one Jacuzzi style, also relatively common.

However, I have never before encountered a tub with electrified water. It was a very small one only, meant for one person, and, at the left and right walls, about 20 cm under the water level, there were some type of pads, maybe 12 x 60 cm in size. Between them, a current was flowing. The feeling when passing through was … strange, scary almost.

At first, there was only a small tingly sensation on the skin. Standing right in the middle of the pads though, the current forces the muscles to contract. It is nearly impossible to voluntarily counteract this contraction, and I am not sure this is entirely owed to a lack of strength on my part. It’s not really painful, or not meant to be, but it is an odd feeling if your body is doing something you cannot influence one way or the other.

Personally I found the experience interesting, but I will not repeat it again very soon. Unfortunately I have had some problems with my hip for quite some time now, which has certainly been aggravated by sitting on the floor and running around for days on end… When I passed through the current, my hip muscles contracted involuntarily, there was a sharp pain – and now walking around is more painful than before and I will need to take even more frequent breaks on my trips through town… Well, good to know that this kind of electric shock therapy is not doing me any good.

Shopping

I needed to buy a present for a friend (or better: her son), so I went shopping today, to the Yodobashi Camera near Kyoto station. They sell mainly electronics, cameras, and household appliances, but I have also seen bicycles, watches and jewelry, and some clothing.

It was an interesting experience to say the least. First of all, the store is huge and spreads over five floors altogether, one of them underground. Everywhere there was something bouncing on a screen, some voice coming from a device, some other announcement from the speakers, and I did not even go to the HiFi and TV departments… The choice in all departments was almost overwhelming: there were dozens of similar but not quite the same printers, cameras, fans, refrigerators… crammed into the tiniest space next to each other, with only rather narrow aisles between the displays. I would call this a constant sensory overload – I am glad they didn’t do anything with smells outside of the “beauty” department – and I am seriously wondering if the shop assistants, neatly clad in blue uniforms, actually still hear any of the noise.

In any case, I was quite surprised by the prices – but I have to admit that I haven’t bought any electronics in years, thanks to my frequent moving. Scanners, printers and faxes for 20000 YEN, one very small photo printer for only 8000 YEN (but I assume the ink and the photopaper will earn the company enough). Interestingly, the small pocket dictionaries many people carry around unless they have a smart phone were much more expensive than that, about 30000 YEN and more. And then there were the thinnest computer screens I have ever seen, tiny laptops that barely weigh anything, huge, A3 sized touchpads… I can understand why some people – men especially – drool over those things. Not me though. Not now. Not until I need a phone. And a new laptop. And general household stuff for my new apartment…

Sorry, no picture today – didn’t think of bringing my camera.. Next time though!