Tiring…

What's up in Kyoto LogoI’m tired today, but even so I have the impression, I didn’t accomplish much. That’s because I spent most of my day entering events into the What’s Up In Kyoto calendar. It’s a very boring and repetitive task, and still not quite as easy as it sounds.

Many of the events I enter have descriptions only in Japanese, and no homepage to go to for a quick copy/paste into google. That means that I have to literally paint the kanji into google translate, which is time-consuming, and sometimes, the translations are … let’s say: interesting. Often, I also need to scan the flyers and postcards, but that’s a minor issue. My “favourite” ones are those where it is not clear where the event is taking place. Just today I threw out three or so where I only found out after googling that the event was somewhere in Tokyo.

At least the calendar program keeps improving. Tockify continuously adds little features that make my life easier. Now I can save addresses that I often use which is a big time saver. So, in the best case I can add an exhibition, in, say a gallery I already have in the database, within 5 minutes (including the scanning of the postcards, which I do in bulk when I get them.) In the worst case, it can take up to 15 minutes when I need to find out what exactly that Kanji mean, which kind of Buddhist ceremony it is and where I have to go for it… No wonder I only managed some 25 events today.

It’s getting much better though. And I have very nice and relaxing plans for the upcoming weekend!

Stereotypes?

Today was a wonderful spring day with blue sky, a bit of a breeze and pleasant temperatures. So, it was a good day to do laundry and put it out on the balcony to let it dry. And I noticed that in the building opposite of mine several men were doing this chore!

This surprised me. When I grew up, laundry was definitely a women’s job, and probably not just in my family. And I know that Japanese society is rather… macho, with predefined roles for men (working in a company) and for women (working for the kids). However, a (male) friend of mine has told me that in private, things may be very different. According to him, he knows businessmen who play tough all day, but are very happy to go home and cook dinner there – every night! I also know some Japanese men who are excellent cooks, but I am wondering how prevalent this really ist.

I know that Japanese society is quick to punish people who do not conform, but as long as you keep things private, a lot is possible, really! But that also means that change will be very, very slow. And the young woman I once saw driving a cement mixer will probably remain an exception for quite a while… Cement Mixer in Japan.

Watashi Mo!

Japanese GeishaIt’s International Women’s Day!

While I do not call myself a feminist (for various reasons) I do applaud the new strength the women’s movement has gathered worldwide to push equality of the sexes. Not all the ideas are good in my opinion, but at least, there’s a discussion going on that will move things forward. It’s good to see empowered women protesting all over the planet, and in Spain, even shutting down the country with their strikes. It’s time for us to be taken seriously!

In Japan, things are moving much more slowly. The society is very reluctant to change, and while there are some women who expose themselves publicly in the fight for women’s rights, the majority is silent, even though they may agree.

One Japanese woman who is not silent at all is Shiori Ito, who has become the face of #metoo in Japan. She was raped in 2015, and after a long battle to get the man – a personal friend of the prime minister, apparently – prosecuted, the case was finally thrown out, possibly on intervention from really high up. Yes, rape is a crime in Japan, but as in so many other countries, it can be very difficult to get a conviction, even if the evidence supports the victim’s claims.

Shiori Ito is still not silent, she is trying to fight not just her own, but the bigger fight. Despite receiving a lot of backlash over her action – also from other women in Japan – she strives to change attitudes and procedures that rape victims face in this country. I hope she does succeed in this, so that soon, it will be indeed a Happy International Women’s Day for everyone!

Read up on Shiori Ito in this piece of the Tokyo Weekender, published some time last month.

Compliments

Overcoming the barriers between cultures is extremely difficult. Often, both sides operate from a basis of implicit cultural expectations that are completely incomprehensible to the other side. When this happens combined with a language barrier, then it’s possible that all hell breaks loose – or at least, that people end up extremely disappointed.

A Japanese friend of mine likes to date foreigners. She says she’s not like the typical Japanese girl, and she doesn’t want a typical Japanese guy either. She thinks that foreigners are more open to non-traditional roles in a relationship, which is something important to her. Recently, she has started dating a man from the middle east, and we got to talk about the interesting problems she’s facing:

First of all, there’s the language barrier. None of them speaks the other’s language, so they meet in the middle and speak English with each other. In such a case, of course, mistakes happen. You use one word that you think means something, but your partner understands something else. Or, you both understand the word in general, but in this particular context you should have used another one.

For example, the other day, my friend asked her boyfriend whether he was “taking their relationship seriously”, and now she’s worried because he doesn’t text her as much as usual. I had to explain to her that he probably understood she wanted to “get married and have babies soon”, and that his reaction was quite normal for a guy after such a short relationship. She explained what she meant with her question and I suggested the word “exclusive” instead.

Things like this happen all the time, so that’s no big deal, and probably something to laugh about later. The second, bigger issue to overcome, however, is the culture clash between two people. Different cultures have different expectations or even rules for how to do things and what is “normal”. Even if doing essentially the same things, doing them at different speeds may lead to total bewilderment on both sides.

For example, I once read research about American GIs dating British girls after WWII. Interestingly, the British girls found the Americans too pushy and fast, whereas in turn, the American boys thought the British to loose with their morals. What had happened? Obviously, there was no language barrier, so something else must have turned both sides off. The solution was: different cultural expectations of dating, in particular: of kissing. Apparently, the first kiss happens quite early in an American relationship, while in Britain, the first kiss between a couple was at a stage much closer to sex. So, while the girls thought their Americans were too pushy with the first kiss, the boys were nonplussed why they were allowed to storm the castle so quickly… Funny, isn’t it?

Anyway, back to my friend who has another type of cultural problem: Compliments. Her boyfriend has a nickname for her, says things like “you are my moon” etc., and pays all their expenses together. She find this odd, almost uncomfortable, and doesn’t know how to react. According to her, Japanese guys don’t do that at all. I explained that Arabic is a quite flowery language, and that she should just lean back and enjoy the attention. And possibly read some Persian or Arabic love poetry (or 1001 Nights) to get in the right frame of mind.

In return, she makes him compliments like “you are so handsome”, which are greatly appreciated and apparently expected by Japanese guys, but make her boyfriend rather uncomfortable. She says in Japan, girls are supposed to make boys compliments because the man has the higher ranking in Japanese society, and any woman can call herself lucky to marry a good guy, so she needs to keep him happy – with compliments. I explained that in western society, the woman is the one to receive the compliments and that it is expected for men to raise the woman onto a pedestal, in particular when dating. And I suggested that she makes him compliments that are more focused on inner values like “you are so smart”, because western men seem to prefer those.

So, all in all it’s very interesting how different languages and different cultures make any relationship, let’s say: “interesting”. A romantic relationship is even more complicated under these circumstances. In any case: I have learned something as well! Maybe I should go out and make my own experiences? 😉

Faux Pas

Japan has given the world the automated bidet toilet where people can wash their nether regions after use with the push of a button. Today, more than 80% of the Japanese households have these kinds of toilets, and they are becoming more and more popular in the West as well.

Toilet slippers in Japan
photo by Crispin Semmens, wikimedia commons.

However, one thing that is unlikely to spread to the western world is the use of toilet slippers. Those are usually very cheap, easy to clean slippers, that are used in the toilet – and only in the toilet! They are provided mostly in restaurants where you have to take off your shoes, but also some private homes are using them. You are supposed to remove your usual slippers in front of the toilet, use the toilet slippers while inside doing your business, and then switch slippers again when returning to the main part of the house.

The idea behind toilet slippers is, that there are “clean” and “unclean” parts to a house. The outside is generally seen as “unclean”, that’s why you are asked to remove your shoes when entering a Japanese home. Traditionally, the toilet was outside of the house, and people would have to literally step out of the house and put on their shoes to go there. Even in modern homes, the toilet is often located nearby the entrance or as far away as possible from the main living area. Many houses have the bathroom and toilet (two rooms, actually) on the first floor, and the bedrooms on the third floor, which I find rather inconvenient – what if you’re sick?

Anyway, one of the bigger faux pas that a foreigner can commit is to use the toilet slippers – and then forget to change to the normal ones again, and going back to the livingroom wearing the ones designated for the toilet. It happened to me twice already… In my defense: it was winter both times, and those were very nice, fluffy and warm toilet slippers. I was with friends in both cases, and their reaction surprised me: They were laughing their heads off at the silly foreigner! I was very surprised at this reaction, I thought people would be offended by me making their home dirty. But they just found it extremely funny. Oh yes, the Japanese: you never know what you can expect…

Preview…

March is almost here, and today was a wonderful day that felt like spring, almost. The sun was shining, there were blue skies… but the wind was a bit strong, so my bicycle ride to my afternoon meeting was not quite as pleasant as I had expected. Still, the weather is very nice at the moment, I don’t need my heater that much right now, and I am seriously considering to end my livingroom confinement soon, and moving back to my office and bedroom.

It seems that this year indeed, the cherry blossoms will be a bit earlier, just as predicted. Right now, there is nothing at all to be seen here in Kyoto, of course, but I have found a really lovely picture of Himeiji castle during hanami.

Himeiji Castle during Cherry Blossoms
copyright: Himeiji City

The renovations on Himeiji castle have been finished, so maybe I can make it down there this year. It is said to be the most beautiful castle in all Japan, so I definitely have to go there eventually…

Party!

Just a very quick update:

I was out tonight with a couple of friends for a small party. We went to one of those tiny little Okonomiyaki places where you eat the food from a hot plate in front of you. There was quite a bit of alcohol involved as well. And afterwards we went to the Okura Hotel where we had some dessert to wrap things up.

I had a lovely evening, it was fun to chat and eat and drink and…

Financials

Japanese currencyDay by day and step by step, I am leaving Europe behind further and further. Today I received my final tax return from the last year I (partially) lived in Germany. Because that last year I spent only 4 months in Germany altogether, and a bit less even working there, I expected quite a bit of taxes back – and happily, I was not disappointed. In fact, that one tax return is more than I ever made otherwise in a single month, which is a bit sad, really.

Once the money is on my account, I can transfer it elsewhere and close the account in Germany. It’s quite expensive, the customer service is… not good, and I don’t really need an account in Germany, so there’s no point in keeping it. It feels like I keep burning bridges, for now it looks and feels good and since I do it out of my own free will, it doesn’t scare me. Maybe things will look differently once I am stranded here without any way back?

Lecture

Since I came to Japan, right after I had left academia, I did not set foot into a university anymore. Okay, not entirely true: I had a few German-Japanese exchange classes at Kyoto University, and I met friends there when they came over for a conference. However, I hadn’t listened to a scientific lecture in 5 years.

Until today. This afternoon, there was a Research Colloquium in the RIHN Research Institute for Humanity and Nature called Rethinking Environmental Praxis, Disciplinarity, and Subjectivity. And since the language was English/Japanese (with an emphasis on English), I took the opportunity to spend an intellectually stimulating afternoon!RIHN Colloquium FlyerThere were three talks, the first one by a PhD student; the title was Ecologies of Knowledge and Practice: Perspectives from Japanese Studies and the Environmental Humanities. Unfortunately, I was a bit late to this one, and I must have missed something important in the beginning, because I was completely lost… But then again, reading the first sentence of her introduction on the colloquium’s flyer, I knew I wouldn’t have much chance to begin with:

…investigates non-Cartesian intellectual and cultural histories of nature that emerged between Europe and Japan and their relevance to the practice of knowledge, including knowledge gained from practice, today.

Again: this was meant to be a research colloquium, so she was addressing her peers, perfectly fine that I didn’t get it. If somebody could explain the above paragraph to me though…

The other two talks were much more accessible. The second one was by a Kyoto potter who at some point decided to make his ceramics with clay personally dug up from various locations in Kyoto. He showed many pictures of the clay he used to make particular objects with. What fascinated me most were the different colors of the clay from around Kyoto: from almost white, to a strong yellow, a greenish hue, navy, and black. I had no idea that simple clay could have that many colors – I only know gray one! He also explained that he likes to “feel” the clay before deciding what to make out of it, and that some types of clay “do not stand”, which means they can’t be formed to cups for example.

The third talk was called Environmental Subjectivity Seen from View Point of Language and Perception. I have learnt today that Japanese apparently has a persecution complex, and that the individual’s position of persecution and passivity is characteristic of the Japanese language. For example, instead of saying “I waited an hour for the bus”, some Japanese would phrase it as “I was made to wait an hour for the bus” or “I was escaped by my girlfriend” instead of “my girlfriend escaped me”.

The speaker also explained that in Greek and Latin, there are three types of speech patterns or verbs: active – middle – passive, and that the middle one would be for things you cannot really influence or consent to, like being born for example. He also sees more words than we would think as active: For example, “to rule” is active (obviously), but also “to be ruled” is an active act because it requires the consent of the individual. I found this the most interesting talk – I understood the basic concepts, and there’s plenty to take home and think about.

Unfortunately, the talk was cut a bit short because of time constraints, and also I have to say: the presentation was truly awful! We got the typical “let me write this all on the screen and then I’ll read it off for you” thing which already drove me crazy during my own time at university. This is forgivable for a student, but the guy is an associate professor for crying out loud! Are there no standards in Japan? Had I ever given a talk like this in public, my PhD advisor would have kicked me to the curb – and rightfully so!

Anyway, I had a nice and stimulating afternoon. It would be cool to go to more talks like this. I wonder if there’s already an event calendar for that kind of stuff…

Wintery

The last couple of days it has been really cold in Kyoto: We are having around -2 degrees here in the nights, and day temperatures are only around 6 degrees. I am reluctant to leave my only heated room where the space heater runs non-stop even though I only set the temperature to 16 degrees (thanks to heavy blankets, I can manage.) It is not too cold to bicycle though, the exercise helps staying warm, I would not be doing that anymore otherwise.

From what I hear, it seems it is snowing everywhere in Japan except in Kyoto. My friend tells me there are more days with snowfall than usual in Tokyo (which is probably not fun in such a big city, think of all the traffic). And today I’ve read that there are 800 cars snowed in on a highway in Fukui prefecture. That’s in “snow country” on the western coast of Japan where people are used to heavy snowfall, but 60 cm of snow within two days is a lot in any large city.

The situation must be really bad since the Ground Self-Defense Forces (aka: the Japanese Military) has been brought in to shovel snow and to distribute food and water to people trapped in their cars. Convenience stores nearby the highway are sold out – and no food truck in sight. I wonder for how long this is going to last.

If you believe the “Cherry Blossom Flowering Forecast Map” that has been put out a few days ago by the Japan Meteorological Corporation, not for too long. They predict a very early cherry blossom season this year, at least for the Kansai and Kanto area. For Kyoto and Osaka, cherry blossoms are said to arrive on March 26/27, a day or two earlier than usual. Up in Tokyo, the cherries should start even 6 days earlier than in average years! I know it sounds odd to the Westerner, but hanami is indeed a national pastime of the Japanese…

Cherry Blossom Forecast Map 2018, copyright JMCIf you’re interested in a detailed forecast for all the provinces in Japan, have a look at this link: https://n-kishou.com/corp/news-contents/sakura/news2018.html?lang=en