Hospital

I am taking palliative medicine.

Now that I have your attention, let me assure you: I have no plans of dying soon, despite my disease being incurable; I will die with it but not from it, as long as I take that one pill every morning before breakfast (which is what palliative medicine is, strictly speaking: relieving symptoms without curing the cause. Think of diabetes and insulin, for example.)

Unfortunately I was running out of my pills and hence, I had to see a doctor to get a new prescription. I decided to go to the Kyoto University Hospital, partly because at least the doctors there (should) speak English, and partly because it is just a stone’s throw away from Ebisu’s. The hospital accepts outpatients from 8:30 to 11:00, so I went there as early as possible.

I arrived at the responsible ward at 8:30 but was slightly surprised that it was empty of both patients and personnel. Somebody told me however, that as a first timer in the hospital, I had to register first on ground floor, counter #2. The hospital appears to be very prepared for the foreigner who does not speak Japanese: The form was in English and the staff has their usual explanations translated and compiled into a long list, so they only need to point at the right sentence in English. My old Austrian drivers licence caused some hilarity (they need a copy of an ID and I don’t carry my passport), but besides that everything went smoothly. I was issued a Hospital Card immediately and, armed with instructions and something that looked like a mobile phone I was sent back up to the responsible ward.

There, I first was handed amy Kyoto hospital cardnother form to fill in (medical history), and was then instructed to have my measurements taken. I stepped on a small platform and a machine automatically took my height (less than expected) and my weight (still too much), and then I sat at another one that took my blood pressure (all ok). Then, I had to wait.

Finally, at about 11:20, the phone rang. Well, it’s not really a phone, but some kind of oversized beeper with a large display. When it rings, a message is displayed telling you what to do next. In this case it said “come to examination room 207”, and I dutifully obeyed. The doctor, a nice middle-aged man who spoke excellent English and even some German, was already waiting with my file ready. After discussing the medication and its dosage he asked me to have a blood test done and whether I’d want to wait for the results. I agreed to that, and off I went, first to have my blood taken (everything done and over with in less than 5 minutes), then to have lunch in a coffee shop.

At about a quarter to one the phone rang and I saw the doctor again. We agreed on a slightly lower dosage than what I have been taking until now, he gave me a prescription and a new appointment in 3 months’ time.

Barely out of his examination room, my phone rang again and I was instructed – provided I was finished now – to take all my stuff to ground floor, counter #5, in order to finalise everything and to pay. The paperwork was taken by some clerk, and I was asked to wait in front of several machines where I could pay my bill. “But, how much is it?” I asked, just to get the answer: “You’ll get a message on the phone…” And so I did after maybe another 10 minutes. I put the phone into an extra slot into the machine so the amount was transferred and I could pay by inserting cash or using a card. Once the receipts were printed – very nicely on A4 paper – the phone disappeared automatically and I could leave the hospital.

I then walked across the street, picked one of the pharmacies at random, and while they were filling the prescription, I had to fill in yet another form about my medical history… It seems that Japanese love forms of every provenance.

The whole adventure including the trip to the pharmacy took about five and a half hours, but mostly that was because I had (or chose) to wait. As I have a fixed appointment for next time, it should go much faster then.

Things that surprised me:

  • They needed my mother’s name on the application form. Why?
  • Everything appears to be highly efficient. You know who’s an office clerk, a doctor, a nurse, they all wear appropriate uniforms. Everything is organised, you know exactly what to do, where to go and when. All forms are in English (even the one in the pharmacy) and the lists with the English sentences are a great help. If you are still unsure, all staff are very friendly and helpful.
  • The beeper/mobile phone. You can walk around the whole hospital or have a coffee while you are waiting. There is no need to stay put in your ward and stare at the wall. A brilliant system – and: I got the messages in English! I have heard that those beepers also work across the road in the many little restaurants – buy maybe the beepers for the doctors on call have a larger range?
  • My next appointment is in exactly three months, and I received medication to cover exactly those days – and not a single more. Instead of a full package of pills as normal in Europe, the pharmacy handed me a bunch of those blister packages tied with a rubber band in a plastic bag together with a single piece of paper stating how often I need to take them. No package insert listing all hazards when taking this medication – but it may have been different had I said that I could read Japanese.

So yes, despite the endless wait it was a rather pleasant experience, and I’m looking forward to the next appointment.

Whack!

Monday night, at around 3:45, I woke up. It felt as if something had kicked my bed (remember that I sleep on the floor) and I thought I had heard a noise as well. Nothing else happened, so I only took a look at my alarm clock and went to sleep again.

Tuesday morning however, I thought, well … actually … it could have been … So I checked the web page of the Japan Meteorological Agency, and indeed – the night before I had experienced my first earthquake during this stay in Japan! earthquake image from JMAThe details are as follows and can be found on this page: It was a small earthquake, of magnitude only 2.5 at its epicentre, which was around 10 km underground and about 22 km southwest of Ebisus’s.

Only one of my housemates felt it also. He said it was very subtle, and he heard the noise as well. He even said he expected something to happen because all the crickets suddenly went quiet…

It was a very interesting experience as it was so different from the other earthquakes I have witnessed. The bump and the noise were all – not even the lamp was shaking, but admittedly it was hard to see anything in the darkness. It was very short and only a singular occurrence, and as I said I went back to sleep immediately.

I am seriously considering to keep tally how many earthquakes I am experiencing – the ones I can feel at least. This one would be # 3 in total.

Slow

Snail on a stoneIt was a slow day again. It was raining all Sunday, and today was still overcast. The temperature dropped by about 10 degrees over the weekend – I even felt cold during the night and had to get an extra blanket – but the humidity is relatively high.

So, nothing much happened today. I studied Japanese (a little step every day…), did some research on how to become self-employed in this country (lots of different opinions and advice on that one), sent out a CV for another job with my name on it (at least this one doesn’t require “perfect” Japanese like the other position – which is still being advertised, btw…), did some shopping (I’m out of chocolate again), and wrote to yet more people I know about helping me in my job search.

Things will start moving again soon, I’m sure.

Volcano

Volcano
Shusaku Endo

cover of VolcanoJinpei Suda has just retired as the director of the local meteorological institute. He is considered the expert on the Akadate volcano that lies just across the bay. For years the volcano has been inactive, and Suda has declared it extinct. But with the arrival of a new, eager young member in the institute who challenges his judgement, Suda becomes insecure and starts to climb the volcano again.

Father Sato is exhilarated. He finally received permission to build a new church on the foot of the Akadate. It will be larger and more beautiful than any of the churches in the vicinity. The land is bought and all but cleared and he impatiently awaits the start of the construction.

(Father) Durand, however, the former priest of the parish has his doubts. He has had them for a long time now, not just about god but about almost anything. Having turned a cynical, sick old man, he hopes that the Akadate will erupt to wash away the old and make place for the new.

An interesting but rather slow novel about people’s fears and hopes and about getting old and seeing the new replacing what you have built. The stories of the three main characters above are only loosely connected; they live more next to each other than with each other. I found Durand, the expelled priest the most interesting character. His cynical doubts and painful (self-) accusations make him the most memorable of the protagonists.

I think this book is fitting to the latest eruption of Sakurajima as mentioned in Monday’s post, as the story – with the volcano across the bay looming over the city – is quite clearly set there.

Check this book out on amazon – enjoy!

Trial

I met a number of friends during my vacation and we talked a lot – fun stuff, serious things… One of my friends was surprised that I didn’t have a Japanese bank account yet. He said: “I have a bank account in Japan – I just went there and opened one.” I know he never lived in Japan, and I was also quite sure opening an account is not that easy anymore, but I thought I’d go and try anyway…

With my last adventure involving banking in Japan still in my mind, I decided to take it easy. Instead of rushing all in and saying “I want” just to be told that “you can’t”, I planned to simply go there and politely ask for the necessary documents to open an account.

There was the same nice lady as the last time, who still apologised (quite unnecessarily) for her lack of speaking English, but she was trying to help me anyway. Her verdict was a very simple: “All you need is a zairyu card”, which is a registration cardSample of a Zairyu Card for foreigners residing in Japan. Residing being the key word here – people on a tourist visa cannot apply for one. In fact, if you have a work visa (or anything else that’s not a temporary one), your zairyu card is issued right at the airport – which is very practical! Besides that, a deposit of 1 YEN, and about two weeks of patience until all cards are issued, there is nothing more you need to open a bank account in Japan.

It was worth a try, but it seems times have changed and the Japanese are now much more strict who may open a bank account in their country. I’ll have to wait a bit more then…

Moisture

It was a very nice day today, hot and comparatively dry. The maximum temperature was 38 degrees, with a humidity of about 40 percent, and it was cloudy enough that the sun didn’t heat up my room to resemble a sauna.

I took myself as usual to my favourite place at Yoshida shrine until the late afternoon, when I could hear thunder in the distance. I then sat at my window watching the storm approaching over the city from the South where there are no mountains. It took only half an hour and lots of lightning – which unfortunately I was always just a fraction too late to capture on camera – until the rain finally arrived at Ebisu’s. And then, everything was over almost as quickly. thunderstorm approaching over Kyoto

Thunderstorms in this part of the world are not overly pleasant, I think. While in Austria, a summer storm is always a reason to be grateful for as it cools the area and leaves fresh air behind, this is not so in Asia, as I had to find out before. Mostly, the rain has no cooling effect whatsoever, and there is hardly any fresh air afterwards, although there may be this nice “wet” smell lingering for a short while. Thunderstorms in these parts seem only to be there to raise the humidity, so the general feeling when one has just passed is one of increased stickiness, which is not really something to look forward to.

This time, probably because the storm came so late in the afternoon, there was an unexpected and quite refreshing drop in temperature of about 5 degrees. It does feel nice and cool right now, I may even need a blanket for the first time since I returned from vacation! Unfortunately, humidity has doubled to 80 percent – and it may stay just like that tomorrow…

Isn’t it nice to be able to complain about the weather no matter what it is and where you are? 😉

Eruption

Since the disastrous Tohoku Earthquake in 2011, we keep hearing about the volatility of the Japanese earth, and the numerous, practically continuous earthquakes shaking the country. So far, however, there has not been an earthquake in Kyoto since I arrived, at least not one I could feel.

What is often forgotten is that the Japanese islands are of volcanic origin and there are many volcanoes around – the most famous one is Mount Fuji. There are 108 active volcanoes in Japan, where a volcano is defined as active by the Japan Meteorological Agency (JMA) if it has erupted in the last 10.000 years. The JMA is monitoring around 30 of them 24/7, and one of them erupted yesterday.

image of sakurajima erupting in 2009
Sakurajima (2009), courtesy of Krypton (wikimedia commons)

It was Mount Sakurajima on the island with the same name, in the southern part of Kyushu, which spewed ash as high as 5000 metres. Sakurajima – Cherry Island – is a popular spot for tourists; in fact I was considering visiting it myself during last year’s trip to Japan, but I ended up touring Honshu instead. This volcano spits ash fairly often, and it seems that people are quite used to it. Nearby, there are several cities, Kagoshima being located just across the bay, and apparently Kagoshima city council simply advises people to carry an umbrella when ashes are falling again.

Actually, I find the news rather exciting, but this is from the safety of Kyoto. I would probably think differently if I lived there and had to regularly sweep ash from my doorstep.

Here are links to English Japanese newspapers covering the story:
Japan Today
Japan Times

Obon

As mentioned before, this week marked Obon, the Festival of the Dead in Japan. It is an ancient Buddhist ritual to worship the family ancestors who are said to return from the afterlife to visit their decendants. Traditionally, Obon was celebrated around the 15th day of the seventh month in the lunar calender (and is still in the southern parts of Japan like Okinawa for example) but with the switch from the lunar to the Gregorian calender, things became more complicated. Today, Obon is celebrated around 15th of August almost everywhere in Japan, but in the Kanto region around Tokyo and in Tohoku it happens one month before that. The three days of Obon are not national holidays, but many people are given leave anyway, especially small family run businesses are closed.

The rituals performed during Obon vary greatly depending on the local customs, but as I mentioned yesterday, many of them involve fire and light. I am sure there are special rituals performed at home as well, at each family’s ancestral shrine, but unfortunately I am not privy to any details here.

One thing that is done everywhere though are Bon Odori or Obon dance performances to entertain the dead – and the living as well. I went to the one at Enma-do temple in Kyoto last Wednesday night. There were about 20 performers, all dressed in same yukata and turquoise socks, and I was surprised to see both children and women among them (as women often have no place in religious ceremonies). In the beginning were musical pieces with flutes and small (taiko) drums.

Music performance with drums and flutesThen followed the dances, accompanied by music and sometimes a sung story. I am not entirely sure, but the two guys below dressed as women (do you notice their hair-ornaments?) performed a rather comical piece; and the two girls were meant to conjure images of the Maiko of Gion with their long sleeved kimono.

cross-dressed guys dancingwomen depicting maikoThe highlight however, was the lion’s dance: It told (all without words) the story of a lion, living peacefully in the forest – performing acrobatic feats so as to not get bored – until a “great” warrior came along and killed the poor beast. As you can see, I was rooting for the lion all the way! acrobatic lion on a small pedestalwarrior ensaring the lion in a net

Lights

As I have mentioned on Monday, from August 14th through 16th the Festival of the Dead, or Obon, is celebrated in the Kansai region of Japan. The idea is that the ancestors of each family come back from the realm of the Dead to visit their offspring, are worshipped and treated to some goodies, and then are sent off again.

How this is celebrated depends on the region, but very often it has something to do with fire and light to guard the spirits. For example, I have seen in a comparatively small town in Nagano province, where many people own a house with garden, that during Obon small fires are lit at the entrance of each house so the spirits can find their way home easily. Here in Kyoto, at the Higashi Otani Cemetery for example, lamps with real candles are lit at the huge graveyard, and people can come and worship their ancestors during the early evening, bringing flowers and little offerings – I have even seen a cup of sake here and there.

higashi otani cemetery at obonThe important part of Obon however, is to make sure that the ghosts don’t linger for too long. They are sent off – once more with fire and lights – on August 16th. Again, the ceremony depends on the region. Where there is a prominent river or lake or maybe even the sea, little paper lanterns are inscribed with the name of the dead person and then set afloat on the water, so the spirit goes, accompanied by the light of the candle, home to the ocean.

One of the most spectacular ways of sending off the spirits is happening in Kyoto (where else). It is called the Gosan-no-Okuribi (literally the Five Mountains Send Off Fire) or more simply the Daimonji. Kyoto has mountains on three of its sides, and on the flanks of the northern ones (counterclockwise from east to west) five huge bonfires are lit at 8 pm on August 16th. Each bonfire has a specific shape: The first one (the daimonji) is the kanji for “big”, the second one (myo and ho) the kanji for the Buddhist concept of “dharma”. The third one (funagata) has the shape of a boat the souls can ride in, the fourth one is another “big” kanji (called the left one to distinguish it from the first), and the last one is in the shape of a shrine gate or “torii”. The fires are lit at intervals of 5 to 10 minutes and only last for about 20 minutes, to keep it sweet and short.

daimonji character for "big"The worshipping of the ancestors at the cemetery, including light and fire rituals of one sort or the other, is done all over Japan, and of course it is necessary to travel home for that. Hence, although Obon is not a national holiday, many small and family run businesses close and allow their employees a few days to go home. This makes travelling during Obon very stressful, as there are so many people abroad, but interestingly, it is relatively easy to find a hotel (unless you insist on something small and family-owned) – clearly everybody stays with family.

I will write a bit more about Obon in my post tomorrow.

Electric Sento

Near Ebisus’s there is a small sento or public bath. A sento follows the same principle as an onsen – another type of public bath – but there are small differences: The biggest one is that a sento does not draw its water from its own well. Sento use normal tap water which does not have any minerals in it. Also, traditionally, a sento consists of an entrance/changing room and then the bathroom with at least one large tub. The facilities for men and women are next to each other, mirrored along a separating wall – which does not reach to the ceiling! So, you can hear what’s going on on the other side. Modern sento are almost sterile and boring affairs with white tiling all over, but I have seen old ones with beautiful paintings on the walls – and a considerably lower separating wall…

Image of a sento
Image of a traditional sento - the women's side - from an old book

The other day I went, one of my housemates in tow, to said sento nearby Ebisu’s. It had four adjacent tubs, all with the same water temperature (onsen usually have several, differently tempered tubs). One tub was scented with lemon (the smell of the week), there was a large and deep normal tub and one Jacuzzi style, also relatively common.

However, I have never before encountered a tub with electrified water. It was a very small one only, meant for one person, and, at the left and right walls, about 20 cm under the water level, there were some type of pads, maybe 12 x 60 cm in size. Between them, a current was flowing. The feeling when passing through was … strange, scary almost.

At first, there was only a small tingly sensation on the skin. Standing right in the middle of the pads though, the current forces the muscles to contract. It is nearly impossible to voluntarily counteract this contraction, and I am not sure this is entirely owed to a lack of strength on my part. It’s not really painful, or not meant to be, but it is an odd feeling if your body is doing something you cannot influence one way or the other.

Personally I found the experience interesting, but I will not repeat it again very soon. Unfortunately I have had some problems with my hip for quite some time now, which has certainly been aggravated by sitting on the floor and running around for days on end… When I passed through the current, my hip muscles contracted involuntarily, there was a sharp pain – and now walking around is more painful than before and I will need to take even more frequent breaks on my trips through town… Well, good to know that this kind of electric shock therapy is not doing me any good.