Blossoming

stack of papers from http://www.publicdomainpictures.net/view-image.php?image=66350&picture=&jazyk=ENYesterday was a rainy day, and it was cloudy almost until sunset. So, I stayed home and did some paperwork: paperwork for Japan, for Austria, for Germany… Sometimes I think the one and only truly international thing is bureaucracy… I still have to make printouts of some supporting papers, but most of it is done, thank goodness. By the way, my preference of staying home when it rains seems to be not only my own: My housemate, who was teaching English here for a number of years, said that there always were significantly more cancellations of classes on rainy days.

Anyway, today’s weather was much nicer, and I walked to my favourite cafe in town to get some writing done (this post, for example). On the way there along the river I noticed that the rain was exactly what the cherry trees had needed: So many of them that still looked totally barren only on Friday are now full with lovely white blossoms. The peak is said to be next week… Already, the city is full of Japanese with cameras or at least smartphones, running from one tree to the next exclaiming kirei – pretty and snapping pictures. Oh, the joys of Spring…

Meeting

yellow post itYesterday was the meeting with my friend’s company leaders and it turned out to be a job interview after all. I dressed up smart although not in a suit, but I did spend about 30 minutes on that war-paint that other people call make-up. I am not wearing make-up regularly – well, does once a year count as regular? – so it always takes me ages. As everybody present was thankfully quite young, I hope my outfit was not too far off their expectations.

I was rather nervous before the meeting. Imagine that: In my age, after having changed jobs almost every couple of years for the last ten years, this was only my third job interview – and one of the other one was a video call on skype. I felt reasonably comfortable after a while though, so in the end I went away with a good feeling. However, Japanese people are masters in hiding their thoughts and feelings, so I don’t know what to expect at all. My friend says he has no clue either, but… if they were not talking about me at all after I had left, that is not a good sign is it?

I will not tell any details about the interview, but there is one small incident I’d like to share: I was going there as algorithms designer, and I was explaining to the CEO (not a nerd, he has a finance background) what I’m doing, and at some point he exclaimed: “But, that is very creative!” This surprised and impressed me deeply – many people, even those with an understanding of computer science, do not realize how much creativity lies in this line of work.

Anyway, for now all I can do is sit and wait. I hate waiting for emails that are not coming, so I went for a very long walk today. It was a very nice spring day with about 20 degrees and lots of sun (which I can still feel, ouch), but I can also tell that hanami will still take a week or two. Very few cherry trees are blooming at this point, and those that do have throngs of people around them, taking photos… Nice to see that I’m not the only one without patience 😉

Meishi

In Japan, everybody has a meishi, a business card, except maybe for house wives or students. But once you are working or looking for work, you will need a business card, at least one, that is, as many people carry several: one for work, one for their side business, a private one… They are used for all sorts of reasons, from the strictly business to the extremely cheeky: A friend of mine told me he once saw the meishi of a young man styling himself an applied cunnilingus scientist – he used that one to pick up girls…

Usually, people are more serious though. A standard Japanese business card contains name, job title, (email) address, phone/fax number,… the usual; once in Japanese and on the reverse side in English. Company logos and coloured paper are common, but I have also seen meishi with photos of their owner, which I found a bit odd at first, but, thinking of it, you have a better chance of remembering who gave you the card at what occasion.

Anyway, I now have my own business cards as well. I went to Kinko’s, a national chain operating 24/7 that do all sorts of printing. I ordered only a very basic, white, single-sided, English-only design, as I have no company address or phone number, at least at this point. It took me a while to figure out what job title to give myself, and I decided to simply put the old one on it, after all, this is where my expertise lies. I can always get new cards made, I only ordered a small batch, and they are not that expensive. The service at Kinko’s is amazing – it took them only 24 hours sharp to complete the order. There are cheaper online services available, but in this case I traded price for speed.

business cards and silk holderTo be fully equipped, I also bought a case for my business cards. It is made from Japanese silk, and I had the choice between a more serious, business-like design or something more individual. In the end, I decided to use my gaijin-status and milk it to the last drop. What do you think of it? I first thought those are poppies, but with the branches in the back and the white, those are most likely plum blossoms.

Tomorrow I have a meeting in Osaka with the business partners of my friend there, so I hope they will be sufficiently impressed, of both me, and my business cards. I have not yet decided whether to wear my suit, my friend claims they were “cool”, and I am not sure it is a job interview anyway. However, keep your fingers crossed, please!

Honeymoon

cupid with bowIt was a wonderful day today, the warmest so far, with a peak of 20 degrees. It seems there is a little heatwave this week, that’s fine with me – it will make the spring come a bit faster, so far there is not much to see about it… As I had to pick up something in the city, I went out and along the river, and there were many people enjoying the sun, even though it was a normal working day.

But, when I was walking along the river and enjoying the sun I suddenly realized that my feelings had changed. Nothing to do with spring though 😉 but more with the fact that now I’m approaching the whole Japan thing more seriously. I have a plan now, and things to do to put it in action. I have regular appointments, not just casual ones with friends who won’t mind if I show up later. I have places I need to go to, people I need to see, not just days where I walk around aimlessly to see what awaits me or sit at Yoshida shrine reading for hours. It feels very different from last year, but it also feels good to have a purpose and a goal again. I do not regret spending all the time last year on and with myself, it was necessary to find out what I wanted, and I think I should have done it much earlier.

But now, honeymoon is over. The realities of marriage can begin.

Lacquerware

One of the most beautiful Japanese handicrafts – in my opinion at least – is lacquerware, also called shikki or urushi. Like maný things Japanese, lacquerware originally came from China, but once again, the Japanese have refined the techniques and raised them to new heights.

detail of a writing box coverLacquer is the filtered sap of the urushi tree, and as the midsummer sap is of the best quality, the tree is usually tapped between June and October, in a similar way as rubber or maple syrup is gathered: by making cuts into the tree’s bark at different places. A sign of quality is the amount of urushic acid in the sap (80 – 85 % is optimal), and the sap from different trees should be kept apart. Interestingly, liquid lacquer is very toxic and needs to be handled with care and safety clothing, but once hardened it is practically insoluble, and drinking from a lacquered cup for example is harmless.

hot water pot in red lacquerProducing a lacquered object is relatively easy: A thick layer of lacquer is applied, left to dry – lacquer dries best in a somewhat damp environment between 20 and 26 degrees – and then polished. This process is repeated numerous times until the desired thickness of the lacquer has been reached; different types of lacquer require different periods of drying (from two days to one month), and different means of polishing (from simple whetstones to deerhorn powder). The complicated parts are the preparation of the object to be lacquered – the core – and the final ornamentations that may be applied at the end.

writing boxIn principle, any material can be lacquered – metal, porcelain, ivory, etc., I once even saw a lacquered leaf – but the core of most lacquer work is wood. Clearly, the size of the object determines the type of wood that lies underneath, but for small, everyday things like bowls or boxes, a core made of cypress wood is most commonly used. When the core has been made, a single layer of lacquer is applied. After drying, channels and joints of the core are carefully covered with a mixture of lacquer, hemp, and rice starch, and then the piece is dried again. This layer is rubbed down to give a smooth surface, then another one of sabi, a mixture of lacquer and burnt clay, is applied. When this is dry, the piece is covered with cloth (hemp or linen) to prevent the wood from cracking. Again, several layers of sabi are applied on top of the cloth, dried and polished each time. Only after this procedure is finished, the “true” lacquering as described above will start.

lacquered cabinetNatural lacquer is transparent, but often coloured pigments are added, for example India ink or – traditionally – iron filings boiled with vinegar give black, silicate powder gives white, vermillion red, metallic powders give gold, silver, or copper tones. Coloured lacquer is used in lacquer carvings, for example. Numerous layers of – sometimes differently coloured – lacquer are applied to the core, and then an image is carved into the lacquer, showing the different colours.

carved lacquer on round boxMetal powder is also used in Maki-e, a kind of painting lacquer ornamentations, that has been developed in the Nara period (645 – 794). Essentially, a design is painted with lacquer onto the piece. The wet lacquer is then dusted or rubbed with coloured powder, and so, layer by layer, the final image is created. When the design is complete, a final layer of clear lacquer is applied to even out the surface, which is then polished.
pitcher, 16/17th centuryLacquerware remains an expensive artwork that takes a long time to create. Even if some steps can be automated with the help of machines (making the wooden core for example), the final decorations lie still in the hands of an artist.

lunch box

Equinox

Today was a holiday, the Shunbun-No-Hi, the day of the vernal equinox that marks the beginning of spring. It is the equivalent to the Shubun-No-Hi in autumn, of which I have written here. As a national holiday, people are supposed to have the day off, but I noticed that some of the construction work in my area continued regardless. You probably only have a day off as a salaryman, office lady, or if you have your own business and can close when you like.

Anyway, the city cherry blossomsdid seem a bit more quiet today. Traditionally this is one of the days when you visit your family and your ancestor’s graves. I wonder how many people still do this though, there seem to be so many of those occasions. The day was a rather usual spring day: It started out cold and windy, and it rained until noon. Later it became a bit warmer, and in the afternoon I opened the window and lay in the sun for a while. I also did my laundry today and a bit of spring cleaning, just as it’s supposed to be. And now I am ready for the first big Japanese happening in spring:

Hanami – watching the cherry blossoms…

Offense

On the train to Osaka last week, I sat opposite a young woman. She was casually dressed and carried a large shoulder bag that she had placed on her lap. As such, it was nothing out of the ordinary, and I did not pay much attention to her at first.

The Germany-Russia non-agression pact being signedWhen I put down my book, however, I noticed the writing on her bag – it appeared to be from the front page of an old French newspaper – and I felt oddly offended. The article said something about von Ribbentrop signing the non-aggression pact with Russia and I went “HUH?”. It’s history of WWII, or rather its beginnings, August 24th, 1939 to be precise, and it felt very odd seeing any such reference being used to spruce up an accessory. I realize that the young woman probably did not know the meaning of the French and the historical significance behind the headline, and probably neither did the bag’s designer. Hence, I would assume that there was no offense intended by either of them.

For myself, I cannot explain what exactly caused the uneasy feeling about the bag: Is it that talking about WWII is still somewhat taboo in Austria and always comes with mixed feelings? That my grandparents lived through it and the few tales they did tell about it were no pretty ones? Or was it simply the thoughtlessness behind the act? I thought about that for a while and I still have no answer…

Hours

seiko alarm clockOne thing that keeps baffling me after all the years in Asia are working hours. I’m not talking about those seemingly 12 hour days you have to spend in the office. Seemingly they are indeed, because often it is a question of “warm body on chair” rather than being productive throughout. A colleague of mine, for example, upon returning from lunch, would reach for the large pillow in his drawer, put it on the desk and then take a nap for an hour or so, all openly and undisturbed by anybody else in the office. Surely there is a huge peer pressure going on in such a case – you have to be there before your supervisor and cannot leave before she does. In Japan, there is even a fixed phrase that is employed when leaving before anyone else: Minna-san, osaki ni shitsurei shimasu, which essentially means that you are sorry to be so rude to leave early.

Anyway, these are big companies. But even small businesses seem to have interesting hours. For example, when I returned to Ebisu’s from Europe, one of the faucets in the bathroom was leaking badly. I informed the landlady and she called a plumber to come by and at least have a look at the problem. For a week nothing happened, except that we had to keep the front door unlocked so the plumber could enter at any time. Finally, when I left the house yesterday afternoon to go the library, there he was, rummaging around in the bathroom, fixing the faucet – on a Sunday afternoon at 1:30 pm… Strange working hours indeed…

March Was Made of Yarn

March Was Made of Yarn
Various Authors

cover_marchyarnThis book is a collection of writings by various Japanese authors on the 2011 Fukushima catastrophe.

My personal favourite is “lulu” by Shinji Ishii: Lulu is a little dog that sneaked into one of the numerous shelters for orphaned children that were established after the quake. In the night, she sees mysterious, ghost-like women, who, coming down amidst a shining light from the ceiling, comfort the sleeping children. All of them, except five, who seem too wrapped up in darkness for the women to notice. So, Lulu decides to comfort these children on her own, in the only way she knows – the way of a dog…

Another story I enjoyed, although it is much darker, is “Grandma’s Bible” by Natsuki Ikezawa, where a man called Kimura tells his story to a rescue team: Though born in Matsubetsu, he lives in Tokyo, but has an offer to move to Arizona for business, which he is going to accept. Wishing to travel light, he packs his most valuable belongings into a trunk and sends it to his brother, still in Matsubetsu, for safekeeping. However, during the scheduled delivery, the tsunami comes and wipes out the little village, and Kimura now feels obliged to stay…

Note that not all of the stories talk about the tsunami or have a direct connection to it. The book is simply a collection of stories expressing the writer’s feelings at that time; in Japanese many things are left unspoken. A part of the proceeds will go towards disaster relief in Japan.

Check out the book on amazon.

Down

Things are going up and down these days. After the incredible UP I had last Monday, the DOWN followed almost immediately…

First of all, I receivraindrops on a windowed the result of the Japanese test I took in December – I did not pass. Well, that did not really come as a huge surprise, but still, I had not expected to fare that badly on the first two parts of the test, where I scored just a third of the total points. My lack of vocabulary affected mainly the score of the reading section, so even had I been better in the grammar, it would not have made a difference. In the listening section I scored almost 50% though, which is surprisingly high given that towards the end of the 25 minute recording my brain shut down and I could not make out a single word any longer.

Second, my future business partner has turned into my ex-future business partner. We had diverging ideas of the business: He wanted his business with me working for him in a sense, while I wanted my business with me working for myself and no further interference. As not even the business ideas could have been made congruent in the long run, he decided to pull out. I cannot blame him, I would have done the same, so it is much better this way anyway.

Finally, I had to go out yesterday – the one day in the week when it was raining. I hate going out when it’s raining…

But, you are never down for long: I went to see a friend of mine in Osaka and we spent more than two hours catching up and talking about all sorts of stuff, including the business. He gave me tons of good advice and promised to introduce me to dozens of people who may be able to help me further in one way or the other. And if not, they will at least be interesting to know.

Also, I have found a very nice young man for a Japanese-German language exchange. He is very educated, speaks several languages, and is good in explaining grammar and Kanji. I will have to make quite an effort to meet my (or his?) expectations, and it’s great to be challenged!

And the main reason for going out yesterday was that I picked up a picture Honjo san made expecially for me Monday afternoon – and it turned out absolutely beautiful!

I’m not discouraged still – the more it rains, the nicer the rainbow afterwards. Besides, I brought tons of Austrian chocolate for emergencies like this.