Bunka no Hi

Today is the Japanese Culture Day, bunka-no-hi, which has the purpose – what a surprise – to promote culture and arts, but also academic studies.

The first Culture Day was celebrated in 1948, as this was the day when the Japanese postwar constitution was announced two years earlier, in 1946. However, November 3rd had already been a holiday from 1868 – 1912; it was then celebrated as the birthday of the Meiji emperor. When he died, the practice ceased of course, but in 1927 the day became again a holiday, called Meiji-setsu. Hence, today has been a holiday – albeit under varying names – for about 130 years in total.

Kyoto national museum ticketAs I had last week off so to speak, I did my bit to appreciate culture, although not everything I thought I would. I went to the Kyoto National Museum and saw their normal collection in the newly built Heisei Chishinkan Wing, an interesting, brand-new building that had been opened in mid September this year.

From a friend I received a ticket to the International Print Exhibition, Australia and Japan, which is held in the Kyoto MunicipJapanese Australia Print Exhibitional Museum of Art until November 9th. There were prints (woodblocks, lithographs, engravings, etchings, modern photo prints…) of 38 Australian and 106 Japanese artists. There were some very striking pictures, but interestingly, I generally preferred the Japanese prints over the Australian ones.

Today, in celebration of the holiday, there is an interesting ceremony related to poetry going on in one of the shrines of Kyoto. The shrine is quite in the south of Kyoto, and I will have to leave soon to get a good spot for taking pictures. I shall write about this on Wednesday.

Free time!

I have a week off with no appointments whatsoever! My soroban sensei has his autumn vacation this week (which he spends by going to Italy and teaching soroban there) and my German-Japanese tandem partner has a lot of irons in his fire right now, so he too cancelled our meeting this week. Hence: I have vacation too! There are a few things I’d like to do:

Tomorrow seems to be a market at Kamigamo shrine, which might be nice, and nearby is the botanical garden of Kyoto which is probably very nice although it is still too early for the momiji.

Also, a friend of mine has given me a ticket for a private house that once belonged to a potter and which is still in the original state and functions now as museum for his works.

Speaking of museum: The Kyoto National Museum currently has an exhibition of so-called national treasures of Japan, often beautiful pieces of applied art, which I had wanted to see anyway.

And, finally, there is an interesting ritual involving rice cakes in a shrine not far from my place on Saturday…

Well, let’s see what I can accomplish this week. To be honest, I never had anything against lazy vacations with lots of books and chocolates either…

Calendars

One of my favourite places to go is the local Loft store on Sanjo street. It is a Japanese chain selling accessories, small household goods, stationary, travel goods,… For some reason I have always loved paper – the smell, the texture – and I love to browse the stationary goods at the Loft, which occupies the whole third floor. There are notebooks and files, birthday cards and letter sets, fountain pens and pencils, and all the other little things you never even knew you would need on your desk.

And right now, they have calendars. Lots of calendars.

Well, right now is not really true: Those calendars are occupying about a quarter of the third floor space between mid September of any given year to mid June of the next year, that is nine months – three-quarters of a year!

Japanese people seem to love calendars, and they come in every conceivable colour (from decent black to bright pink or gold), in every conceivable size (from palm-sized cuties to sturdy A4 things), for every conceivable customer (from CEO filofaxes to primary student Mickey Mouse agendas). It really seems that everybody in Japan has to have one of those calendars despite everybody having a smart phone these days.

So, why are they sold for such a long period of time? It wouldn’t take any of us that long to decide on a calendar, would it? The reason is that there are two New Years (well, actually there are three, but the middle one is not celebrated much these days). The first New Year is the one the rest of the world celebrates too: January 1st. It is quite a big thing, with lots of ceremonies, some of them religious (first shrine visit of the year not later than January 3rd), others more mundane (visiting relatives, eating particular food, noting the first time of doing something). I am not entirely sure whether this is a traditional time for gifts as well, beyond the ubiquitous New Year’s cards, but a new calendar for the coming year sounds like a very good idea for it.

The second New Year is much less celebrated, probably even dreaded by not a few people. No, it is not Chinese New Year, traditionally at some day in February. I mean the new fiscal year, which starts on April 1st (no joke). Hence, there are calendars in Japan having April as the first month, and I can see that if you are a business owner, or maybe an accountant for a large company, this could be handy.

As I said, I love paper, and I have been wandering through the almost endless aisles with calendars left and right for many an hour in the beginning of this year. I did not really need one this year, but it would have been nice to have one – preferably in froggy-green – and so I thought I would wait until in a month or two they would go on sale. Interestingly, no such thing happened. The January calendars were simply replaced by the April ones, and I only noticed that the hype was over when they did not take up quite as much space than before.

In the end I decided that I would indeed need a 2014 calendar, but I bought only a very cheap one for a few hundred YEN from the Muji store – another favourite place of mine… But that’s for another post.

Gardening

Today was a quiet day, it was very cool and even started to rain a little in the afternoon. Today was also the day the gardeners came, and they took a whole day for their work. Ebisu’s has not much of a garden to speak of, at least not for European conceptions, but here in Japan, even in this neighborhood, it is considered quite large. Our landlady occasionally tends to the garden herself, but once a year she hires the professionals. Or so I hope they are…

I am not sure whether this is because they only come once a year or whether this is the general Japanese concept of gardening, but their approach to the idea can be described as “brutal”. All day the two of them were hacking away at our little jungle outside; I could hear power saws cutting through arm thick branches, leaf blowers, and brushcutters. They even cut the trees and bushes at the top of the steps, although technically this would be the upstairs neighbour’s responsibility (that house is not inhabited though).

When I returned from a quick shopping trip in the early evening, the garden looked more like a sand desert than a green refuge. The trees have been severely cut back, no more grass can be seen at the front of the house (my landlady keeps toying with the idea of simply paving it over) and all the bamboo is gone at the back of the house. It looks quite sad indeed. The only consolation I have is that in this hot climate, it will all grow back again next spring…

Matsuri!

Yesterday was the matsuri of Yoshida shrine, which I consider “my” shrine, as it is less than 5 minutes away from Ebisu’s. It was a matsuri as many others I have seen before, but on a much smaller scale, it felt almost intimate.

As I got the timing wrong, I was very early and could see the preparations. Some things were ready: The main mikoshi had been prepared and the seats for the priests, the musicians, and the local dignitaries who would be present during the religious ceremony. The three carts that would be carried or drawn through the streets: a large cask of sake, a small mikoshi, and some sort of sacred tree, decorated with paper. Mikoshi of Yoshida shrineOthers were still in the making: Four Taiko drums were set up at the main square of the shrine and carefully covered to shield the skins from the sun before the performance. People who would be participating in some way or the other, would get dressed: the dignitaries mentioned above, the students, both male and female, who had the honor to carry the mikoshi through the streets, the children who would accompany the parade. little samuraiThe two students who would play the important role of the lion got into their costume – and into their role. I could ask them a few questions, they were highschool students and it was not their first time. The lion – shishi – who accompanies the parade is performing a lion dance – shishimai – and part of that dance is to chase and bite little children, in order to bring them luck in the next year. Apparently their parents like that idea better than the kids though… mask of a Japanese lionFinally, the preparations were over, and as a sign that something would start happening, the musicians took their seats. Then, the dignitaries formed a lane through which the priests – five of various ranks, distinguishable by their robes – would walk toward their seats in front of the musicians, then the dignitaries – all dressed in black ceremonial kimono with gray hakama – would take their own seats opposite the priests.

The ceremony started with the usual bowing and consecration rituals. Then the priests got up and went to a small shrine, and, while the musicians played a tune – well, a single tone, actually, that sounded both creepy and hallowed – they transferred the kami of that shrine into a little portable shrine, and from there to the large mikoshi that had been prepared. Then, more bowing followed, and each of the dignitaries made a small offering to the kami in front of the mikoshi. When that ceremony was over, the people gathered for the parade. start of the paradeUnder the drumming of the taiko the parade started out from the main shrine, uphill past four other, smaller shrines (I am never sure whether they have anything to do with Yoshida shrine or not) and then, the parade meandered through the neighborhood, with a drum upfront, the two mikoshi behind – carried by a large group of girls under many washoi-screams – and the lion doing his dance to scare, I mean, bless the children. Yoshida matsuri parade

Drop

The typhoon last Monday night has thankfully more or less bypassed Kyoto. Unfortunately, we can feel the aftermath: The temperatures have dropped quite considerably since then.

The afternoons are still nice and sunny, with wonderful bright blue skies and temperatures in the mid-20s. Mornings and nights, however, have suddenly become much cooler. Last evening, when I was sitting at my desk in my room, I was for the first time contemplating getting the heater out, but I then opted for a blanket instead. Also, although I am now closing my windows over night, I still wake up in the morning because I feel cold. Don’t worry, I have not yet maxed out the number of blankets I am using, nor the layers of clothing I’m wearing!

I am a bit worried about winter though, how cold it will get. If it will be like the summer was – with a dense blanket of clouds above the city virtually every day – it will probably be relatively warm (for rather cool definitions of “warm”). But if there are lots of clear days, it will become very, very cold indeed. Have I mentioned that I have recently noticed a crack in my wall through which I can look outside…

Repairs

The big typhoon that was supposed to hit Kyoto last Monday night did – just like the last one a week before – bypass the city, thank goodness. Last Sunday, our landlady came to prepare the house: opening all the windows just a little bit, so there would not be too much pressure on any side (apparently, if there is, the whole house could blow out); removing anything from the outside that could be blown around and thus cause damage; tying unremovable things down; securing the bicycles by laying them down… In the end, there was some rain and some heavy gusts of wind, but not in the least as serious as everybody had feared. Towns on the East coast have not been quite that lucky I have heard…

So, our house is still standing, and thanks to the recent repairs on the roof there was no leakage. Or, at least, not in the expected spots… About half a year ago, I told the landlady about leakage on the ground floor: During heavy rain, the drainage on the back of the house cannot quite handle the amount of water, and the overflow came through the back door into the house, into the narrow pathway between the kitchen and the entrance area which is level with the outside (the kitchen itself and the rest of the house are elevated above ground by maybe 40 cm).

construction sign

Then, the problem was fixed, chiefly by installing a new back door with a higher threshold and new floorboards in the pathway inside. I watched as it was done, and already then I was suspicious of the threshold, which is nothing more than a piece of wood laid down and covered with plaster. It looks solid, but it certainly is not!

The proof for this came Monday night: As the drainage problem outside has not really been addressed, the overflow from the heavy rain slowly leaked through the threshold and even seeped up through the floorboards. I have informed our landlady about this – I wonder what is going to happen this time. The solution would be rather simple, but I wonder if I should dare suggest it…

Taiiku no hi

running shoes on display in a shopToday is another one of those Japanese “Happy Monday Holidays”, it is called taiiku no hi, the Health and Sports Day, held every year on the second Monday in October. It originated in 1966, two years after the Summer Olympics took place in Tokyo, and it is meant to promote an active and healthy lifestyle, both physically and mentally, interestingly.

Around this day, many schools have some sort of sports event; I passed by the primary school nearby on Saturday, and indeed, there were lots of kids on their athletic ground, doing gymnastics, and lots of parents standing there watching, with and without cameras and smart phones.

I have to confess that the only type of sport I was doing today was cleaning my room and going shopping for emergency chocolate. There has been a typhoon warning for the east coast of Japan, and it is supposed to hit us tonight – it is raining right now, but still comparatively quiet…

Lost and Found

In the late afternoon on Wednesday, a housemate came to my room, she was quite miserable: She had spent all day in the library doing research, and when she went home, exhausted, she had forgotten her bag in the bus, complete with laptop and the day’s findings. She didn’t know what to do, and because of another appointment in the evening she couldn’t do anything anyway. As she does not speak Japanese, she couldn’t make phone calls either, so I agreed to go to the police station with her on Thursday morning.

There is a rather large police station – not just a neighborhood Koban – nearby on Higashiojidori, and we arrived there at 9:15 on Thursday morning. Only three police cars were parked outside, but when we entered, there were lots of men in uniform. There was an open counter and a young man got up as we approached it. On my question whether he spoke any English he first got pale, then looked around for help from his colleagues, but they did not seem at all eager to assist him. Finally he grabbed a big yellow report pad and a pen and put it in front of us. My friend wanted to explain in English, but I ventured forth – I had had lots of time to practise – and said in slow, deliberate Japanese: “Yesterday, my friend forgot her bag in the bus.”

The policeman’Japanese police logos face lit up as I had never before seen in an adult, only with small children in front of their first Christmas tree. I am not sure what exactly made him so happy: That he could understand what those foreigners wanted, or that this was not his responsibility. In any case, he hastily put the notepad back again and motioned us to follow him. At the end of a dark corridor there was the Lost & Found office, he briefly explained there what we wanted and hurried back to his own counter, visibly relieved.

I repeated my well-rehearsed sentence nevertheless, and we received a form – bilingual in Japanese and English – to fill out. It was quite the expected: Who are you, where do you live, when, and where did you lose what exactly. My friend even went so far to draw a picture of the bag… Anyway, while she was filling out the form, I tried to explain – in a mix of Japanese and English, aided by a prepared list of vocabulary, that she was an author, that her latest book was on the laptop inside the bag, and that it was very, very important indeed to have it back.

While one of the clerks helped us filling out the form, another one called the bus company but it turned out that the bag had not yet been found. My friend got worried, but I tried to calm her by saying that it was quite early in the morning, and that the report and/or the bag may not have made it to the main office just yet.

At that point the office head joined us at the window, asked what all the fuss was about and finally inquired why we had not called the bus company ourselves. I tried to explain that I could make myself understood in Japanese when talking to people face to face, but that I was entirely lost on the phone. Anyway, we left with a note on which three numbers were scribbled: The one of the lost and found office, the number of the report we had just filed, and the number of the bus company, just in case. It was 9:45.

From there, things went uphill. My housemate remembered a Japanese friend and she got her to call the bus company and to inquire for the bag directly there. Also our landlady, contacted the night before, had called the bus company. At 2:30 pm, the relieving message came: The bag had been found and could be picked up at the bus terminal.

When I returned from my soroban class in the evening, my friend already sat in front of her own computer again, relieved and happy. She said that everything had been inside the bag just as she had left it – with one exception: Somebody had gone through the bag – probably to try and find a hint of the owner – and had removed the banana peel that was still inside… What a service!

White Night 2014

Last Saturday was this year’s White Night – Nuit Blanche Kyoto – the all night modern art culture event inspired by its Parisian counterpart. This year, there were 35 locations, and together with a housemate I went to the French Institute not far from Ebisu’s to see an Experimental Tea Ceremony. nuit blanche kyoto 2014 logoThe tea ceremony itself was not experimental at all. Although it was hard to see the details, the ceremony appeared to me very traditional: a woman in formal kimono, traditional tatami and tea utensils,  refined and measured movements that were just so, an attendant to offer the finished tea to a special guest of honour in the first row of the audience. Cleaning of the utensils afterwards.

The experimental part was the surroundings: There was a saxophonist playing music, well, more tones than a melody, really… I liked it, it added something special, although I’m not sure whether he was playing live or the music came from a tape – it was heavily alienated and remixed with other sounds. The other additional thing was a dance performance that started about half way into the tea ceremony. It was a performance similar to the one of last year, but it lasted much longer, and it was more… vigorous, especially towards the end. The dance started when something that looked like stage decoration began to move slowly, then the dancer started to remove the coat he wore (underneath was body paint and a fundoshi, a Japanese loincloth). He seemed to somehow threaten the woman who had just finished the tea ceremony, but he was carefully avoiding to touch her in any way. She left after a while and the dancer then had the stage to himself until the very end. All through his performance, the music kept being played.

This type of modern dance is called Butoh, it has been developed in the 1960s as a rather special Japanese art form, and has since spread to other countries as well. My housemate was really thrilled about this, she likes modern art, and this type of dance especially. I was not so excited about it, to be honest. Different than last year, the performance could not grip me, I did not have the impression there was any story that was told, and I thought it too long; maybe 10 minutes less would have made a greater impact. I can appreciate the great body control that is necessary for a performance like this, but still, it is not quite my thing… My housemate went to another Butoh performance just tonight, but I passed on this one. I think I’ll need a bit more distance before I go and actively seek another one out…