Communication

I went to my favourite cafe in town the other day. I like going there, the staff are very friendly, they have delicious icecream and hot chocolate, and although the cafe is very centrally located on Teramachi, it is surprisingly quiet. So, I don’t feel bad if I stay there for a couple of hours and write, sipping on a hot chocolate or the free water that is provided. I avoid going there in the weekends though, they are very busy then and I don’t want to take up space without bringing them good business – after all, I prefer them to remain open…

cartoon "generation web 2.0" by Peter WellemanAnyway, when I’m not totallly absorbed in my writing, I like to watch the other customers. It’s mostly a young crowd, often groups of girls, but also couples, all of them hip and well styled and equipped with the latest in fashion and gadgetry. What I noticed is that often, the girls – and sometimes even the couples – while sitting next to each other, don’t talk to each other but stare into their smartphones instead. Sometimes they laugh and then show each other what’s going on on their screen, but mainly it is a solitary activity.

Honestly, if I went out to see a friend, staring at my mobile phone would be the last thing I would want to do. If we were to meet someplace and he whipped out his phone and tuned out, I’d be deadly offended and would probably leave. Of course, I don’t even have a mobile phone, so that’s easy for me to say, but it can’t just be me who is finding this type of behaviour at least somewhat irritating. Or am I simply getting old?

Hanami

Barely has it arrived last week, it is almost over again: this year’s hanami season. The Japanese manage to take all the excitement of koyo – autumn colours – and yet raise it up a notch or two, which is understandable, after all, hanami takes only one week compared to the several of koyo. pink cherry blossoms

Once again, the masses are flocking to Kyoto to view the cherry blossoms and to take what seems like thousands of pictures. The blooming cherries are everywhere, and everywhere there are groups of people, sitting under them, eating and drinking. I went to Maruyama Park yesterday, and it had a beergarden kind of feeling with all the food stalls and places selling beer. The cherry blossoms the park was full of were nice indeed, especially the large “weeping” cherry in the middle, but altogether I found it too noisy and crowded for my taste, so I did not stay long.

Anyway, when in Japan… Here are a few of the pictures I took:

cherry blossoms in front of a stone lanterncherry trees at kamogawa rivercherry blossoms at kurodani graveyardboat trip for hanamicherry trees at chion-in

 

Taxes

In Japan, the new year starts on April 1st. New year meaning in this case: the new year at school and universities, the new year when new university graduates start working their first job, and the new fiscal year. The latter brought a big change for the Japanese: Higher sales taxes.

Japanese currencySince April 1st 2014, you have to pay 8% of sales tax on purchases in Japan, instead of the 5% it was before. This is still a totally ridiculous amount compared to the 20% you have to pay in Austria for example, so I am not complaining about this at all, although the prices in Japan are high enough already, especially for groceries.

What does irritate me is the following: I have just found out that the supermarket I usually go to has changed their price labelling. They have switched from stating the gross prices to putting the net prices onto their labels, which means that you’ll find out the final price only at the cashier’s. This annoys me greatly. As I said, it’s not the amount of taxes at all, when buying groceries it’s not a big deal anyway, but I prefer to know exactly how much I have to pay for anything before I choose to buy it, without doing mental math of how much I’ll have to spend in reality.

I really hope this is just a temporary measure…

Hunting

I went down to Kamogawa today. It is lined with cherry trees, they are in full bloom now, and I wanted to do my own little hanami. Hence, I bought, quite traditionally, O-nigiri, and also, quite modern, some cream-filled waffles. I sat down on a good spot to enjoy the view and started eating.

When I had arrived at dessert and just contemplated the second bite, all of a sudden and literally out of the blue, something came from the right, snatched the waffle out of my hand and disappeared again. Within a single blink of my eyes, my fingers were smeared with cream, but empty, and it took another blink for my mind to even form the question “What…??” It happened that quickly, I didn’t even see the eagle.eagle in flightOnly when I looked around and saw two of them fighting for their “prey” did I realize what had just happened. I could feel the talons, but I don’t have a single scratch, so craftyly did he pick the little sweet from my hand. They are indeed amazing animals.

On a hunting related note: A UN court has recently ruled that the Japanese must give up whaling. Despite the international moratorium they so far used the “science” loophole to keep it up, and that although everybody knew the truth – whalemeat could openly be bought in many places. Now, however, Japan has agreed to abide by the court’s ruling, which I find quite astonishing to be honest. A good day for the whales!

Edit: A falconer I know has pointed out that the birds in question are not eagles, but kites, most likely Black Kites. Thanks for the info! Obviously I don’t know much about birds – but the fact that it was not an eagle who stole my desert does not in the least diminish my fascination with the animals…

Blossoming

stack of papers from http://www.publicdomainpictures.net/view-image.php?image=66350&picture=&jazyk=ENYesterday was a rainy day, and it was cloudy almost until sunset. So, I stayed home and did some paperwork: paperwork for Japan, for Austria, for Germany… Sometimes I think the one and only truly international thing is bureaucracy… I still have to make printouts of some supporting papers, but most of it is done, thank goodness. By the way, my preference of staying home when it rains seems to be not only my own: My housemate, who was teaching English here for a number of years, said that there always were significantly more cancellations of classes on rainy days.

Anyway, today’s weather was much nicer, and I walked to my favourite cafe in town to get some writing done (this post, for example). On the way there along the river I noticed that the rain was exactly what the cherry trees had needed: So many of them that still looked totally barren only on Friday are now full with lovely white blossoms. The peak is said to be next week… Already, the city is full of Japanese with cameras or at least smartphones, running from one tree to the next exclaiming kirei – pretty and snapping pictures. Oh, the joys of Spring…

Meeting

yellow post itYesterday was the meeting with my friend’s company leaders and it turned out to be a job interview after all. I dressed up smart although not in a suit, but I did spend about 30 minutes on that war-paint that other people call make-up. I am not wearing make-up regularly – well, does once a year count as regular? – so it always takes me ages. As everybody present was thankfully quite young, I hope my outfit was not too far off their expectations.

I was rather nervous before the meeting. Imagine that: In my age, after having changed jobs almost every couple of years for the last ten years, this was only my third job interview – and one of the other one was a video call on skype. I felt reasonably comfortable after a while though, so in the end I went away with a good feeling. However, Japanese people are masters in hiding their thoughts and feelings, so I don’t know what to expect at all. My friend says he has no clue either, but… if they were not talking about me at all after I had left, that is not a good sign is it?

I will not tell any details about the interview, but there is one small incident I’d like to share: I was going there as algorithms designer, and I was explaining to the CEO (not a nerd, he has a finance background) what I’m doing, and at some point he exclaimed: “But, that is very creative!” This surprised and impressed me deeply – many people, even those with an understanding of computer science, do not realize how much creativity lies in this line of work.

Anyway, for now all I can do is sit and wait. I hate waiting for emails that are not coming, so I went for a very long walk today. It was a very nice spring day with about 20 degrees and lots of sun (which I can still feel, ouch), but I can also tell that hanami will still take a week or two. Very few cherry trees are blooming at this point, and those that do have throngs of people around them, taking photos… Nice to see that I’m not the only one without patience 😉

Meishi

In Japan, everybody has a meishi, a business card, except maybe for house wives or students. But once you are working or looking for work, you will need a business card, at least one, that is, as many people carry several: one for work, one for their side business, a private one… They are used for all sorts of reasons, from the strictly business to the extremely cheeky: A friend of mine told me he once saw the meishi of a young man styling himself an applied cunnilingus scientist – he used that one to pick up girls…

Usually, people are more serious though. A standard Japanese business card contains name, job title, (email) address, phone/fax number,… the usual; once in Japanese and on the reverse side in English. Company logos and coloured paper are common, but I have also seen meishi with photos of their owner, which I found a bit odd at first, but, thinking of it, you have a better chance of remembering who gave you the card at what occasion.

Anyway, I now have my own business cards as well. I went to Kinko’s, a national chain operating 24/7 that do all sorts of printing. I ordered only a very basic, white, single-sided, English-only design, as I have no company address or phone number, at least at this point. It took me a while to figure out what job title to give myself, and I decided to simply put the old one on it, after all, this is where my expertise lies. I can always get new cards made, I only ordered a small batch, and they are not that expensive. The service at Kinko’s is amazing – it took them only 24 hours sharp to complete the order. There are cheaper online services available, but in this case I traded price for speed.

business cards and silk holderTo be fully equipped, I also bought a case for my business cards. It is made from Japanese silk, and I had the choice between a more serious, business-like design or something more individual. In the end, I decided to use my gaijin-status and milk it to the last drop. What do you think of it? I first thought those are poppies, but with the branches in the back and the white, those are most likely plum blossoms.

Tomorrow I have a meeting in Osaka with the business partners of my friend there, so I hope they will be sufficiently impressed, of both me, and my business cards. I have not yet decided whether to wear my suit, my friend claims they were “cool”, and I am not sure it is a job interview anyway. However, keep your fingers crossed, please!

Honeymoon

cupid with bowIt was a wonderful day today, the warmest so far, with a peak of 20 degrees. It seems there is a little heatwave this week, that’s fine with me – it will make the spring come a bit faster, so far there is not much to see about it… As I had to pick up something in the city, I went out and along the river, and there were many people enjoying the sun, even though it was a normal working day.

But, when I was walking along the river and enjoying the sun I suddenly realized that my feelings had changed. Nothing to do with spring though 😉 but more with the fact that now I’m approaching the whole Japan thing more seriously. I have a plan now, and things to do to put it in action. I have regular appointments, not just casual ones with friends who won’t mind if I show up later. I have places I need to go to, people I need to see, not just days where I walk around aimlessly to see what awaits me or sit at Yoshida shrine reading for hours. It feels very different from last year, but it also feels good to have a purpose and a goal again. I do not regret spending all the time last year on and with myself, it was necessary to find out what I wanted, and I think I should have done it much earlier.

But now, honeymoon is over. The realities of marriage can begin.

Lacquerware

One of the most beautiful Japanese handicrafts – in my opinion at least – is lacquerware, also called shikki or urushi. Like maný things Japanese, lacquerware originally came from China, but once again, the Japanese have refined the techniques and raised them to new heights.

detail of a writing box coverLacquer is the filtered sap of the urushi tree, and as the midsummer sap is of the best quality, the tree is usually tapped between June and October, in a similar way as rubber or maple syrup is gathered: by making cuts into the tree’s bark at different places. A sign of quality is the amount of urushic acid in the sap (80 – 85 % is optimal), and the sap from different trees should be kept apart. Interestingly, liquid lacquer is very toxic and needs to be handled with care and safety clothing, but once hardened it is practically insoluble, and drinking from a lacquered cup for example is harmless.

hot water pot in red lacquerProducing a lacquered object is relatively easy: A thick layer of lacquer is applied, left to dry – lacquer dries best in a somewhat damp environment between 20 and 26 degrees – and then polished. This process is repeated numerous times until the desired thickness of the lacquer has been reached; different types of lacquer require different periods of drying (from two days to one month), and different means of polishing (from simple whetstones to deerhorn powder). The complicated parts are the preparation of the object to be lacquered – the core – and the final ornamentations that may be applied at the end.

writing boxIn principle, any material can be lacquered – metal, porcelain, ivory, etc., I once even saw a lacquered leaf – but the core of most lacquer work is wood. Clearly, the size of the object determines the type of wood that lies underneath, but for small, everyday things like bowls or boxes, a core made of cypress wood is most commonly used. When the core has been made, a single layer of lacquer is applied. After drying, channels and joints of the core are carefully covered with a mixture of lacquer, hemp, and rice starch, and then the piece is dried again. This layer is rubbed down to give a smooth surface, then another one of sabi, a mixture of lacquer and burnt clay, is applied. When this is dry, the piece is covered with cloth (hemp or linen) to prevent the wood from cracking. Again, several layers of sabi are applied on top of the cloth, dried and polished each time. Only after this procedure is finished, the “true” lacquering as described above will start.

lacquered cabinetNatural lacquer is transparent, but often coloured pigments are added, for example India ink or – traditionally – iron filings boiled with vinegar give black, silicate powder gives white, vermillion red, metallic powders give gold, silver, or copper tones. Coloured lacquer is used in lacquer carvings, for example. Numerous layers of – sometimes differently coloured – lacquer are applied to the core, and then an image is carved into the lacquer, showing the different colours.

carved lacquer on round boxMetal powder is also used in Maki-e, a kind of painting lacquer ornamentations, that has been developed in the Nara period (645 – 794). Essentially, a design is painted with lacquer onto the piece. The wet lacquer is then dusted or rubbed with coloured powder, and so, layer by layer, the final image is created. When the design is complete, a final layer of clear lacquer is applied to even out the surface, which is then polished.
pitcher, 16/17th centuryLacquerware remains an expensive artwork that takes a long time to create. Even if some steps can be automated with the help of machines (making the wooden core for example), the final decorations lie still in the hands of an artist.

lunch box

Equinox

Today was a holiday, the Shunbun-No-Hi, the day of the vernal equinox that marks the beginning of spring. It is the equivalent to the Shubun-No-Hi in autumn, of which I have written here. As a national holiday, people are supposed to have the day off, but I noticed that some of the construction work in my area continued regardless. You probably only have a day off as a salaryman, office lady, or if you have your own business and can close when you like.

Anyway, the city cherry blossomsdid seem a bit more quiet today. Traditionally this is one of the days when you visit your family and your ancestor’s graves. I wonder how many people still do this though, there seem to be so many of those occasions. The day was a rather usual spring day: It started out cold and windy, and it rained until noon. Later it became a bit warmer, and in the afternoon I opened the window and lay in the sun for a while. I also did my laundry today and a bit of spring cleaning, just as it’s supposed to be. And now I am ready for the first big Japanese happening in spring:

Hanami – watching the cherry blossoms…