Iris – Page 116 – goinggaijin.com

Artistic

I had a most exciting afternoon today…

First I went to an appointment with my (future) business partner, and for about 2 hours we were discussing how, when, and what, and if we needed a plan B and what it would be. Afterwards he asked me whether I was free in the afternoon, and when I said yes, we went to see a friend of his in town.

The friend turned out to be a woodblock print artist – and, just so that you know: I love woodblock prints!

The idea of a woodblock print is simple: You carve a design into a block of wood, paint it in a single colour and print the design (or rather, its negative) onto paper. Each colour of the picture gets its own carving, so you need at least as many woodblocks as you want colours in the finished image, and the image slowly grows layer by layer, colour by colour during the printing process.

We spent several hours in the gallery/workshop, and I got to ask all sorts of questions: How exactly does he make the prints, how many carved blocks does he need for one finished image, what is the colour he is using, how long does it take for a design to be completely finished, can he really recreate a print he has made before, how does he trace the design onto the woodblocks, what paper is he using… I was very eager to ask all those questions and find out all the details and he seemed to be equally happy to answer them. Finally I was so bold as to ask whether I could see some of his actual carved woodblocks – and he picked up a whole package of an old design from his storage in the first floor. I was – and still am – extremely excited, as I said, I love woodblock prints!

By the way, the artist’s name is Masahiko Honjo and his homepage is here: http://www.eonet.ne.jp/~marugo/index.html

I will not go into further details about woodblock printing in this post – this topic deserves an elaborate and well researched Saturday posting – but here is one of my favourite prints from one of my favourite artists, Hashiguchi Goyo.

Full Japanese Menu

This complete Japanese menu has five dishes plus dessert, and except for the dessert which comes last, there is no strict order to the food. Japanese people take a nibble from here and there, according to their own tastes and preferences. The bitter gourd recipe is the only one that is not standard Japanese food, it’s from Okinawa and thus tastes different, well, bitter. Many Japanese enjoy Okinawan food, though, so it’s worth trying.

Main Ingredients
(4 people)

Chestnut Rice (kuri gohan)

– 80 g chestnuts
Peel the chestnuts and soak them in a bowl of slightly salted water.

– 200 g Japanese white rice
– 60 g sticky rice
– 1/2 teaspoon salt
– twice as much water as rice (by volume)

Mix and wash the rice and put it into a rice cooker. Drain the chestnuts and put them on top of the rice. Do not mix them under yet. Add the water and salt, then cook the rice as usual
When the rice is cooked, mix the chestnuts into the rice.

Grilled Chicken Skewers with Vegetables (Yakitori)

– 400 g chicken thighs
– 2 spring onions
Cut the chicken into small cubes (3 cm side length) and the spring onions into 3 cm pieces.

– salt and pepper

Soy-based Sauce:
– 2 tablespoons of whole soybean sauce
– 3 tablespoons of sugar
Mix the soy sauce with the sugar.

Coat 300 g of the chicken with the soy-based sauce.
Thread the chicken and spring onions alternately onto bamboo skewers, thread the remaining chicken onto skewers and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Grill the skewers on a grill or open fire.

– 1 paprika
– 8 green peppers
– 8 shiitake mushrooms
Trill the vegetables (or fry them in a pan with oil) and garnish the skewers of meat.

Boiled Chrysanthemums With Radish (daikon no hana no oroshiae)

– 200 g daikon radish
Grate finely and drain from the resulting water.

– 2 blossoms edible chrysanthemums
Take the petals and boil them quickly, then put them in cold water and drain.

– 150 g cucumber
Slice thinly.

– 2 tablespoons baby sardines
Pour boiled water over them, then drain and let them cool.

Sweetened Vinegar as Dressing:
– 2 tablespoons of vinegar
– 2 tablespoons of sugar
– 1 teaspoon salt
Mix together.

Mix all the above ingredients together and dress with the sweetened vinegar.

Stir-fried Okinawan Gourd and Tofu

– 1 bitter gourd
Cut in half lengthwise, remove the seeds and slice in 5 mm pieces.

– 1/2 pack deep-fried tofu
Cut into slices of about 8 mm.

– 1/2 tablespoon oil
– 1 tablespoon sugar
– 1 tablespoon miso

Fry the bitter gourds in oil. When they are softened, add the sugar and the miso. Towards the end, put in the tofu and fry for another minute or so.

Japanese Clear Soup (Dashi)

Dashi:
– 1 litre water
– 20 g dashi konbu (dried seaweed)
– 20 g katsuo bushi (dried bonito)
Put the konbu into the water and heat up. Just before the water starts boiling, remove the konbu and add the katsuo. Boil for one minute, reduce the heat and wait until the katsuo sinks. Strain the dashi through a wet cloth.

– 1/2 pack tofu
– 1/2 pack nameko mushrooms
– 1/2 pack daikon radish sprouts
– 1 tablespoon light colored soy sauce
– 1 tablespoon salt
– fragrant garnish (suikuchi)

Prepare the dashi, add salt and soy sauce. Place the tofu into the hot dashi and boil it. To serve, put the tofu, nameko, daikon, and suikuchi into a soup bowl and pour the dashi over it.

Potato Rice Cakes (Imo Mochi)

– 100 g sweet potatoes
– 1 rice cake
– 80 g red bean jam (anko)
– some kinako (soybean flour)

Peel the potatoes, cut them in 1 cm slices and put them in water to eliminate the bitter taste. Put the potatoes on a dish and cook them in the microwave for 5 minutes.
Water the rice cake and heat it in the microwave for 1 min.
Crush the boiled potatoes in a bowl and mix with the heated rice cake. Put the mixture into a bowl covered with kinako, and make four pieces.

Divide the anko into four pieces and wrap it with the potato mixture. Lightly sprinkle the finished rice cakes with kinako.

Decisions

Entering Japan this time was not as straightforward as it used to be. On immigration, the officer seemed unhappy and asked why I wanted to come to Japan – again. I’m not sure whether he was not persuaded by my answers or whether he simply followed standard procedures, in any case he called his supervisor and I was led into a small room for additional questioning. Several times, I had to lay out my plans for Japan, where, when, and with whom I was going to put them into action, and why on earth I hadn’t had that glorious idea earlier or, better still, in my own country. In the end the officer appeared satisfied, stamped my passport – for another 90 days – and wished me luck for my endeavours with a hearty “gambatte kudasai”.

So, what did I tell her? I told her that I was here to open my own business. I know 😉 I wrote about this before, and about the requirements, and then I shied away, being too afraid of the consequences. Now, however, after another three months of unsucessful job hunting, where I have implicitly been told countless times that I’m not good enough, I’ve had it. To listen to that kind of talk, I could have stayed in Austria in the bosom of my family… Now I have made up my mind: I will do my own thing, I will go self-employed. After all, I do not mind that my Japanese is less than perfect and that I am not an English native speaker…

You want details? Well, I want to start a webpage geared towards tourists – both foreign and Japanese – coming to Kyoto, in both English and Japanese. Income generation through advertisements. I figure that a) the tourist industry in Japan – both international and domestic – is large enough to afford me a share and b) with my background I can do the necessary computer work on my own. The only obvious problem I see right now is c) my lack of decent Japanese, but I am sure this can be addressed in one way or the other. Of course, just having a dotcom will most likely not provide instant income to convince Japanese immigration to let me stay, so I am planning to set up the business with a broader foundation, for example to include IT consulting (think web design), language consulting (think translations), and content provider (think writing). I think the right mix will make the business viable and I can always shift focus later on.

So much for the grand vision. The gritty details I shall spare for future posts – plenty of them to annoy you, I am sure… In any case, wish me luck!

Return

I’m back!

I had four wonderful weeks in Europe, visiting numerous friends in Austria, Germany, and the Netherlands. My friends took me shopping – I desperately needed winter clothes and shoes and a new watch – we spent a huge amount of time eating, drinking, and chatting – the longest session took until 4:30 in the morning, accompanied by three bottles of prosecco – I got to know their kids – who quite surprisingly seemed to like me; I’m not good with kids at all – and we went out, for lunch and breakfast, to the movies, the library in Wolfenbuettel, the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam… The highlights: Two birthday cakes, and, in Gmunden, the museum for ceramics. Sanitary ceramics, that is. Mostly toilets, to be precise. I loved it! In those four weeks I got showered with sweets and attention – it was wonderful – thanks to all of you!

Well, I’m back in Japan, five kilos heavier than before. I missed the biggest snowfall of the last 50 years or so (which does annoy me quite a bit) but at least I now have decent clothes to withstand the cold – and it feels especially freezing now after the central heating all over the place in Europe. Unfortunately I have caught a cold a few days before my departure, so the flight was less than pleasant, but by now it has almost passed. I will wait to see my Japanese until I have fully recovered though.

As for my future plans, well… I’ll tell you on Friday.

Nice to be back!

Time Off

I am taking some time off again, actually, I will be in Europe all through February, so there will be no posts during that time. But then again, nothing interesting will happen without me in Kyoto anyway… 😉

Finally I have decided what I’d like to do – and I need to do some preparations and meet a number of people for advice. As well as family, I will visit friends in three countries, so I guess I won’t have much time for an update here.

If everything goes right, I will post again on March 5th. CU then!

The Thousand Autumns of Jacob de Zoet

The Thousand Autumns of Jacob de Zoet
David Mitchell

Jacob de Zoet arrives at Dejima with Unico Vorstenbosch, who has vowed to rid the island of the ever present corruption and embezzlement. And Jacob is the right aide for this; the clerk, finicky, compliant, and honest to a fault beholds a rosy future. Of course, his incorruptability makes him some enemies fromt he start, but among his trusted friends are translator Ogawa and Dejima’s doctor, Marinus. And when Jacob becomes infatuated with one of Marinus’s students, Aibagawa Orito, and seriously considers marrying her, it seems that he is on top of everything.

However, his nice life is falling to pieces when Vorstenbosch is about to leave Dejima and in an interesting turn of events is revealed as the greatest crook of them all. On refusing to cover up his crimes, Jacob’s promotion is revoked and he is forced to fend for himself. Rock bottom is hit, when Orito – upon the death of her father – is forced to become a nun at a dubious Shinto shrine.

What is Jacob to do? Everything seems hopeless, but then, an unexpected ship anchors in the harbour…

Dejima island near Nagasaki was a treaty port of the Dutch, and for a long time provided the only way for the West to trade with Japan. The novel is set at the end of the 18th century, and it gives an apt description of the scheming and corruption that must have taken place on both sides. Some of the events in the novel are based on historic facts. Only the happenings in the Shinto shrine seem to be far fetched, but they do provide the suspense that keeps you reading.

David Mitchell was born in England and came to Japan in 1994 where he taught English in Hiroshima for eight years. He visited the Dejima museum – rather by accident – in 1994, the novel appeared in 2010 and won the 2011 Commonwealth Writers’ (regional) Prize (South Asia and Europe).

Check out the book on amazon.

Busy

Very short update here, I am rather busy. I will be going to Europe in February to clean up things and consolidate assets and put a few other plans into action.

So, the last week I have been busy with packing, buying presents (mostly whacky Japanese food), letting friends know when I want to crash on their couch, getting my clothes washed (and hopefully dried) on time, and making plans in general.

Tomorrow is the start of the Japanese festival called setsubun. It is a kind of festival to oust the demons of the winter – and the ones lurking inside you, while they’re at it. I have not been able to find out whether this is now a Shinto or Buddhist tradition, both shrines and temples seem to be very busy with preparations for it. But then again, often there is no real distinction made between those two religions in Japan anyway. One of the bigger setsubun festivities, including a huge bonfire in the evening, will take place at Yoshida shrine near my place. With a bit of luck, I have time to go and see it.

Neighborhood

When I first came here, I wrote about the difficulties in finding my way around in the tiny little alleys of the neighborhood and remarked about the problems of finding a particular address without a map or detailed directions. Since then I have found out that there are actually maps posted at various, seemingly random, places that show the immediate neighborhood. They depict – often in a charming, apparently handdrawn style – street names and houses and temple boundaries, and the name of the family occupying a particular house. They are often posted next to a signboard with (local) advertisements or event posters and other information.So, to find your way around in a strange neighborhood when looking for a particular address, all you have to do is to locate the appropriate neighborhood map. How to accomplish that is something I will find out eventually.

Water

It seems that all the cold air is going to Europe at the moment – the weather here is unusually warm for this time of the year. Last Saturday, we had a high of almost 15 degrees, and this afternoon was warm and sunny as well.

So, I went out and did what I have wanted to do for quite a while already: I walked along a (part of) the Lake Biwa – Kyoto canal. Near the Kyoto International Community House, there is a small museum dedicated to the water works of Kyoto. From there you can stroll up the hill along one of the water ways until you can see two huge red pipelines coming out of the mountain. This is a nice and quiet spot with a little park and a statue (possibly of the head engineer?) and now that there are no leaves, you have a nice view over Kyoto.

Anyway, I find the canal itself very interesting. It was started in the Meiji era as a way to halt the decline of Kyoto after the court moved to Tokyo. The canal – now there are three of them – connects Kyoto with Lake Biwa in the North and provides drinking water for Kyoto. In former days, the water was also used to generate power: At some point, Kyoto even had a tramway driven with the electricity from the Lake Biwa canal. Unfortunately, the tramway does not exist any longer, but one of the cars is exhibited in Heian shrine garden (why there I have no idea though – I can’t read the sign…). I will explore Kyoto’s waterways further – my interest is certainly piqued…

Engrish

Japanese people of all ages spend an enormous amount of money to learn English. Hundreds, if not thousands of (native!) English speakers are sought every year to teach the language – from pre-school immersion kindergarden song-and-games to specialized classes for employees of a certain company. And still, when you go out and about, the amount of Engrish you will encounter is striking.

Engrish is the noun describing the English – or rather the mistakes – that many Asian people make; so chosen because it is very hard for Japanese and Chinese to distinguish between the sounds of L and R. Some people even say they cannot hear the difference at all – which makes correct pronunciation virtually impossible. Katakana – the way of writing foreign words – which often has to insert unnecessary U’s and O’s to keep the syllables intact – is no help either. But I don’t want to talk about spoken English, most people, once they dare talking to you, are perfectly understandable.

Engrish (here also Japlish) is more often used to describe written English that can be found on many signs all over the place. It can range from the occasionally switched L/R to the literally translated sign; from the advertisement in Engrish-gibberish to the funnily offending T-shirt. Here is only one example: A common mistake that has since become a personal pet-peeve of mine is the sign OPEN – CLOSE at shop entrances… I have seriously considered patronizing only those where the final D is correctly in place, but that would limit my choices too much. One thing I have made my peace with by now is the sign at my favourite French bakery (and many others) which advertises “Chou a la creme” in Katakata that are pronounced “shoe cream”… It helps to assume that this is simply the way those things are called over here.

Other translations and loan words can be funny too. Arubaito (often shortened to baito) means part-time work, and comes from Arbeit, the German word for (full-time) work. A bike is always a motorized two-wheeler, the ones where you have to pedal yourself are called jitensha. A sign saying Happy Merry Christmas I considered almost embarrassing, but the funniest sign I have ever seen was in the window of a small shop advertising “obi body bags“. Remember that an obi is the wide belt worn with kimono, often made from exquisite cloth that can be very expensive. A friend of mine later explained that a body bag is not something containing a recently deceased, but is rather a type of obi that has a zipper somewhere so it can be put on more easily, much like a western style belt. Isn’t it nice to enlarge your horizon…

Often, English signs are simply a way to attract attention. The majority of the writing is still done in Kanji and Katakana, so English advertisements in Romaji stand out much more. I have heard that many Japanese are aware of the mistakes, but they deem them unimportant and ignore them, they don’t even read the signs. I still do, however, and what annoys me greatly – and probably will for the rest of my life – are signs like this one: This is a sign advertising rice cookers. Each of the different models has a sign like this, and let me assure you: none of them make sense in English, nor do they make sense in Chinese (according to a friend). All you can hope for is that they make sense in Japanese… Such things infuriate me because this is not a tiny shop in some back street, this is a sign at Yodobashi Camera, a national electronics chain with 22 stores. I have found numbers that in 2011 they had a revenue of about 9 billion US$ – and with all that money they cannot afford two freelancers doing their translations?

Anyway, to end this post on a nice and positive note, there are lots of funny examples of Engrish all over the internet. Here is only one page: Engrish.com, with pictures of real, live Engrish from all over Asia. The webpage is a major time suck though – beware! Don’t say I didn’t warn you!